What's special about it?

The look. I've never stayed in a more stylish hotel. All public rooms are black and white, incredibly dramatic. The design reflects the history of the house, built when the Dutch were travelling to the East for spices; hence the signature details of screens and old lacquered trunks which are found in almost every room.

And the bedrooms?

Different colours. Ours was green - on entering, I actually shouted: 'Wow!' An enormously tall double bed on which were piled 12 cushions arranged in groups of three, several trunks piled on top of each other and a mini-bar which even contained oxygen.

So this was luxury?

Well, the bed was great and I'd forgive a hotel that supplies linen sheets almost anything - but we soon realised there was nowhere to put things and we couldn't read by the dim lights. Also the bathroom, although beautiful, was not that user-friendly. The shower and loo shared a cramped space, the bath was at an odd height, and the light was hopeless for make up.

Oh dear. What about the service?

Let's say, leisurely. We came back at five o'clock in the afternoon to find the maid making our bed. And the a la carte breakfast took 45 minutes.

Expensive?

The 26 rooms range from £225 for a single to £1,250 for a suite. A standard double is £350.

· Blakes Hotel Keizersgracht 384 Amsterdam (00 3120 530 2010)