After absorbing the sights, sounds and tastes of Stone Town I headed to Matemwe Beach Village in the north-east of Zanzibar. After an hour's journey through villages and the lush interior of Zanzibar I stepped onto the white coral sands of Matemwe beach and really felt like I was on holiday.

I had been told that my accommodation here was something special but I hadn't for a moment imagined that they'd upgrade me to the honeymoon suite. I looked around for the complimentary husband but, alas, he was nowhere to be seen. The Asali suite was a self-contained building set slightly away from the other beach chalets but a world away in comparison and complete with personal chef, should I so choose. I declined; dinner for one in the honeymoon suite would be like pointing 20 flashing beacons at my post 30 single status.

After the manager put down my dusty knackered backpack and gave me the guided tour, I was left truly speechless. In the centre of the open plan living area just before the opening out to the beach, there was a plunge pool with Jacuzzi facility. A seating area with Moroccan-style divan and cushions was on my left and a fully stocked bar on my right.

Ahead two seats overlooked the beach, which was exactly ten UK size seven steps away. It was like a Hip Hotels version of Noah's ark, everything came in twos: two showers, two sets of sarongs and sun hats, two chilled beers in the fridge and just one of me.

I had two choices: one, plunge into a deep depression wondering why I never let my mum find me a nice Indian husband; or two, enjoy this perfect spot, relish the solitude and drink both beers. I drank both beers in the plunge pool - nice.

The beach was incredible; the sand was unlike anywhere I've been before, the texture of freshly sieved self-raising flour (not the most romantic description I know, but the most accurate). From my spot, just outside the suite, I couldn't see another tourist for miles; no need to stake your claim on a sun bed with a towel here then.

I spent two blissful days reading, sleeping, plunge pooling and watching the local kids playing for hours in a discarded old boat - not a Playstation in sight and they looked more than happy.

Back to Stone Town and the luxury ended there. I checked into Hovel Central and came down to earth with a bump. It wasn't all bad, the mosquito net only had three large holes and the showers were only shared by six rooms.

I went on a Spice Tour for a day to plantations just outside Stone Town. Years ago, cloves were Zanzibar's main export, now the island produces smaller amounts of a full range of herbs and spices. We saw and smelt cinnamon, saffron, vanilla, cardamom and lemon grass. Workers on the plantation earn the equivalent of £18 per month, compare that to the price we pay for the saffron they produce and something's going missing somewhere.

Sunday mornings at home don't generally exist, aside from the death stagger for the glass of water I should have taken to bed at 3am in preparation for the hangover. Here I was in Africa though, up at 5.30am to get a ferry to Dar es Salaam. As I went to buy my ticket in my half sleep I was asked whether I was resident or foreigner. There are a lot of Indians in Tanzania so this wasn't too far fetched. The ticket price is justifiably higher for foreigners and I don't have a problem with paying the extra but the clerk accidentally sold me a resident ticket. It wasn't until I tried to board the ferry that I was busted as an imposter. I had to do a full speed pelt with rucksack back to the ticket office, where all I could say through my hyperventilation was "foreigner, foreigner!"

I made it to Dar without further event. Arriving in the city though, was another culture shock. Grimy, gritty, busy and not overly safe were my initial reactions. Although I made it to my hostel fine, I was alarmed to see that the hostel next door had two armed guards. I was more alarmed to find that the guard at my hostel was armed with only a lazy eye and tattered hat!

As with most cities, Dar es Salaam takes some getting used to. It's full on and there's a lot of poverty but still the people seem nice and welcoming. I'm not 100% comfortable here and I wouldn't risk going out on my own at night, but so far after a daytime wander, it's not so bad. Next stop Arusha in search of a safari.