Tom Hall 

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Letter of the week

My brother is driving me nuts! I've mentioned to him that I'm going to the music Festival in the Desert in Mali in January. I plan to get the plane. He wants to go by motorbike. I think this is a rather harebrained idea.

He is adding further worry by talking of going on his own. He doesn't speak French and as a rule ends up having crazy adventures.

I would very much like to enjoy the festival with him! Please could you offer us information on the safest route and perhaps some research points? Have you any idea on how long the motorbike journey would take?
Lucy McDonald, by email

The sixth Festival in the Desert takes place in Essakane, 60 miles south of Timbuktu, deep in Mali's Sahara Desert and is billed as the most remote music festival in the world. Getting there is not easy. It involves a lengthy trek from Bamako or Mopti and there is no regular public transport. Your brother may not be so silly in bringing his own wheels.

Many people go as part of a tour. For example, Saga Tours in Bamako, Mali (www.sagatours.com offers two separate options for tours to Essakane.

As for getting there by motorbike, provided your brother knows his bike well and is an experienced rider, this isn't as much of a harebrained scheme as you may think.

The most common and easiest journey is to take the Atlantic Route through Morocco and Mauritania, although some experienced overland travellers are again travelling south through Algeria this time.

It is essential to do extensive pre-reading and to organise visas and permits in advance. Everything he needs to know can be found at www.sahara-overland.com, a website run by the expert Sahara motorcyclist and author Chris Scott.

Two to three weeks is the normal length of time for a journey like this, though it is possible to go quicker and linger longer if your brother wishes.

Two friends and I are to spend four days in Rome in the next few weeks, from a Thursday afternoon until the following Monday morning. We are keen to see as much as possible of the history of the city, and wondered if you could suggest which days would be best to see what. For instance will Sunday be the best - or worst - day to see the Vatican?

We are staying close to Termini station and intend to get about on public transport. We were also considering getting out of Rome for a day. Can you suggest how we should make the best use of our time, and, since we are on a strict budget, suggest cheap and cheerful places to eat, drink and and get a taste of Italian Rome.
Angie Hall, by email

Provided you don't have ambitious plans for the Monday of your stay, when many museums and galleries are closed, Rome can be seen at your own pace.

If you want to see the Pope, join the crowds in St Peter's at noon on Sundays, but you won't be able to go into the museums or to the Sistine Chapel. Instead, make an early start one day, take in the atmosphere at the Vatican and get a head start on the crowds heading to view Michelangelo's frescoes.

Otherwise pick and choose at will from the feast that is Roman culture.

For a day out, Ostia Antica is a wonderful historical gem giving a good idea of life in a Roman town. The Pope's summer residence at Castel Gandolfo also makes a beautiful excursion. Both are easily accessible by public transport.

The city is a great place for those on a budget. Selfcatering from street markets is a colourful way to load up on packed lunches.

In the evenings head for the Trastevere area of the city for authentic, good value eateries where it doesn't cost the earth to soak up the atmosphere. The area around Termini is not noted for the quality of its restaurants, but you will find ethnic cuisine of surprisingly high standard round here.

My boyfriend and I are travelling to South America for six months in December. We would appreciate any advice on what to do and where to stay around Christmas and the New Year. We fly to Peru on 8 December.
Rachel Wadsworth, by email

Peru's tourist industry will roll on pretty much undisturbed by the festivities. The only problem you're likely to encounter is a slight increase in demand for public transport and accommodation.

If you're going to be in Cusco it's best to book ahead. Shops and attractions will generally be closed on Christmas Eve and New Year's Day.

Christmas in Peru is still very religious and family-orientated. To get a full flavour of this side of the country, head for a smaller town or village.

New Year is party time here as much as anywhere, and Peruvians hit the beach for theirs. If this is your scene, head for the warm water and surf beaches of Mancora, in the north of the country.

The website www.peru.info is a good place for further information.

· We welcome letters. Tom Hall from Lonely Planet addresses as many as possible here. Email escape@lonelyplanet.co.uk or write to Lonely Planet, 72-82 Rosebery Avenue, London EC1R 4RW. The writer of the week's star letter wins a Lonely Planet guide of their choice, so please include a daytime telephone number and postal address. No individual correspondence can be entered into.

 

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