Sometimes you come across somewhere so near perfect you can't believe it hasn't become overrun already. Somewhere like Cookie's Crab Shop on the north Norfolk coast. Despite the fact this part of the world has garnered acres of publicity thanks to its vast sandy beaches and concentration of gastro pubs, Cookie's, in the pretty village of Salthouse, doesn't seem to have registered. Perhaps it's not expensive enough to warrant coverage in the glossy magazines that have drooled over hotels like the Victoria at Holkham, a little further along the coast, where the rooms are stuffed with treasures from around the world and the restaurant serves gourmet food. Well, they're missing a treat because Cookie's is a true gem.

It was set up in 1956 by a local fisherman, Jack Cook. Now his daughter Sue runs the shop with her husband who, eight years ago, "decided to do something a bit different" and added some tables so customers could sit and enjoy their seafood on the spot, with a view across the marsh. The menu is scribbled on a white board above the fish counter - soups for £2, sandwiches from £1.70 and platters from a simple crab salad to the "lobster royal". No contest really, given that the lobster comes piled high with prawns, smoked fish and salad for under a tenner. There are mugs of tea or litre bottles of apple juice supplied by a nearby farm. Or you can bring your own wine. There are fairy lights strung over Jack's old fishing boat and a gate that makes a silly frog noise every time the waitress swings through bearing more seafood platters. It's sweet and simple and the perfect spot on a sunny afternoon.

We found a wobbly table under the big umbrella, cracked open the bottle of French white we'd picked up at the deli in Wells-next-the-Sea and settled down to our seafood feast. When the last dollop of mayo was scooped up, we ordered more food - vast langoustines, then vanilla ice-cream with wafers, then coffee. And when we couldn't justify staying any longer we waddled off across the marsh towards Salthouse beach.

The beach here is shingle and drops down sharply - good for fishermen, not so good for swimmers. But you can walk along the top of the shingle bank, or, more likely after lunch, snooze in the long grass.

For the best beaches though you have to head west along the coast road to Wells-next-the-Sea or Holkham where the sand stretches so far that going for a paddle feels like a major expedition. In between Salthouse and Holkham, the tiny picturesque harbours of Morston and Blakeney make good ice-cream stops - sit on the wall and watch people pottering about on their boats as their kids kayak down the narrow channels. It's all very Swallows And Amazons - everyone here has a healthy glow.

The man we have to thank for introducing us to Cookie's works behind the bar at the King's Head, a former shabby pub with four even shabbier rooms, which after a 15-month revamp has been reincarnated as a stylish hotel and restaurant. The decor in the nine rooms varies widely from pale flowery wallpaper to black wallpaper and a black faux suede throw on the bed. Ours was somewhere in between with more muted colours. All have mini flat-screen TVs and a plate of freshly baked flapjacks to scoff on arrival. The young staff look genuinely pleased to be working in this swanky new place - either that or they are just very well trained.

But easily the best thing about the King's Head is the dining. Grilled prawns came smothered in herb butter with two crevettes on top for good measure; my sea trout and roasted fennel was piled onto a dill pancake. I was glad I'd gone for the light pudding option - strawberries with balsamic vinegar and creme fraiche as it left just room for the super-rich chocolate truffles that came with our coffee.

The King's Head restaurant is a world away from Cookie's but for £150 for dinner, bed and breakfast for two, it too is a bargain, as is the barbecue they put on on sunny weekends.

A flying weekend visit wasn't enough time to see and eat everything we wanted to - we will go back, to have fish and chips from French's on the quayside at Wells, take a picnic up on to the dunes, and of course tuck in to more lobster at Cookie's.

Way to go

Getting there: Bircham is on the B1153 towards Brancaster off the A148 Kings Lynn-Fakenham road.

Where to stay: The King's Head, Great Bircham (01485 578265); Sun-Thurs from £125 half-board for two sharing, Fri/Sat from £150.

Where to eat: Cookie's Crab Shop, Salthouse (01263 740352).

Further information: norfolkcoast.co.uk, touruk.co.uk/norfolk.