What many people don't realise about the sub-Arctic party town of Reykjavik is that it has a population of only 110,000, little more than a medium-sized town by British standards - and all the better for it.
It is a real pleasure to be able to wander the downtown area in a matter of minutes, unperturbed by traffic jams and crowds (although not on weekend nights), to stroll along the waterfront, or saunter up Skolavordustigur to enjoy the views from Hallgrimskirkja church tower.
The city's reputation as a 24-hour party town on summer weekends is legendary, and the fantastic volcanic and mountain landscapes close to Reykjavik is a cure all - you should get out of the city for at least one day, whether to baste yourself in the hot pools, hike the clinkery hills or simply stand and stare at waterfalls, geysers and bubbling mud pools.
See the real sites
Icelandic Phallalogical Museum 24 Laugavegur. Open 2am-5pm Tues-Sat, May-Aug; Tues and Sat, Sep-Apr. Admission 300kr.
Who can resist a museum that claims to display "over 100 penises" from every mammal found in Iceland, plus whales, a rogue polar bear and, coming soon, homo sapiens?
Hallgrimskirkja Church Tower Open daily 10am-5pm. Admission 200kr.
The huge, white, crenellated church tower at the south end of Skolavordustigur is worth a visit for the views over Reykjavik's toy-town houses painted red, blue, yellow and green.
Hafnarhusid (Reykjavik Art Museum) Tryggvagata 17. Open daily 11am-6pm, 7pm Thurs. Admission 400kr, Mon free.
A former warehouse which now displays work by Icelandic artists such as Helgi Porgils and colourful pop artist Erro, and has a good café overlooking the harbour. Also check out the dramatic mural of Icelandic fishermen just along the road on the Customs House, and at the harbour, the five whaling vessels (look out for the red "H" on the funnel) which haven't worked since 1989 but await the signal to restart again after the Icelandic parliament agreed to resume whaling in 1999.
Have a drink
Atlantic Bar and Bistro Austurstraeti 8.
An attractive bar, featuring regular exhibitions by some of Iceland's best photographers.
Gaukur a Stong Tryggvagat 22.
Iceland's oldest pub (only around since 1985 - beer was illegal until 1989), with three lively floors and regular live music.
Hverfisbarrin Hverfisgata 20.
The newest pub in town has quickly become one of the most popular and fashionable, good for everything from a late breakfast to dinner.
Nellys Pingholtsstraeti 2-4.
A busy bar, especially at weekends, and popular with both straight and gay customers - it serves the cheapest beer in Iceland at around 300kr a glass.
Rex Austurstraeti 9.
Tries a little too hard with its Terence Conran-designed interior featuring plenty of steel and glass, but it's open and airy and usually pretty lively with Reykjavik's coolest customers, especially at weekends.
Go clubbing
Sirkus Klapparstigur 31.
An up-market French-style bar with an eclectic array of customers, which can make for some interesting encounters with both locals and visitors.
Spotlight Hverfisgata 8-10.
A pretty wild spot open until the early hours and popular with straight and gay customers. It has one of the biggest dancefloors in town.
Eat out
Apotek Austurstraeti 15.
One of the newest and most stylish restaurants in town with a pleasant interior and good-value fish dishes.
Grof Adalstraeti 10.
Not cheap, but you get plenty of atmosphere as Grof is located in the oldest building in Reykjavik, and the food is very good - check out the succulent Icelandic lamb.
Mokka Kaffi Skolavordustigur 3a.
There are echoes of the 60s about this cozy, music-free coffee bar, which is the city's oldest café.
Perlan Oskjuhlid.
Located on a hill to the east of the city and visible from all points, the Perlan is the place to eat. Its revolving restaurant is situated atop two huge water tanks, which feed Reykjavik with geothermally- heated water, and it has tremendous views over the city and its surroundings.
Go shopping
The Handknitting Association of Iceland Skolarvordustigur 19.
Traditional Icelandic jumpers, woolly hats, gloves etc, which look good on an Icelander - but not necessarily on a pasty Brit back home.
Iceland Giftstore Hafnarstraeti 19.
An award-winning selection of traditional, if expensive, Icelandic crafts.
Go to the pool
The Blue Lagoon Open daily 9am-10pm June-Aug, 10am-9pm April, May, Sep, 11am-8pm Oct- Mar. Admission 800kr half-day, 1,000kr full day.
Located close to the international airport, the milky blue waters of the Blue Lagoon thermal spa are fed by a nearby thermal power station and surrounded by black volcanic walls.
Laugardalur thermal swimming pool Open daily, Mon-Fri 6.50am-9.30pm, Sat-Sun 8am -8pm.
Thermally-heated 50m pool, four hot pools, Jacuzzi, waterslide, steamroom and massage facilities within a short bus ride (no 5) of town.
Go to Geysir
The original geyser after which all others are named is about an hour's drive northeast of Reykjavik. Unfortunately it merely bubbles today, but right next to it is Strokkur which blasts a 30m jet of spray into the air every few minutes. Six kilometres away are the thundering twin falls of Gullfoss, one of Iceland's best-known waterfalls.
Way to go
Getting there: Icelandair (020-7874 1000, goiceland.co.uk) flies from Heathrow and Glasgow to Keflavik (45 minutes southeast of Reykjavik) for £200-350pp return in winter, £280-400pp in summer. Go has flights from Stansted from May-Sept from £120-290pp return.
Crystal (01235 824324, crystalholidays.co.uk) offers two-night weekend hotel breaks including accommodation and flights from £289pp, and three nights from £325pp.
Abercrombie and Kent (0845 0700610, abercrombiekent.co.uk) offers luxurious three-night packages based in Reykjavik which include whale watching, jeep safaris and snowmobiling from £1,795pp.
Where to stay: Hotel Borg, Posthusstraeti 11 (00354 5511440, hotelborg.is) is a delightful 1930s art deco hotel in a convenient location in the city centre. Each room has its own individual decor and past guests have included Anthony Hopkins and Marlene Dietrich.
Getting around: You can easily walk around the city centre, and the yellow city buses are frequent and have a flat fare of 150 kr.
Further information:
Country code: 00 354. Time difference: GMT year-round. Flight time from London: 3hrs. £1 = 139 krone.
