Cuba is the largest Caribbean island. Of its 11 million inhabitants, 60% are of Spanish descent; there are also substantial African and mixed-race minorities. Spain colonised Cuba in 1512 and decimated its indigenous population of Arawak Indians. In 1898 the US occupied the country, but relations soured in 1959 when the charismatic Fidel Castro came to power. The ban on US tourism has its advantages: apart from the coastal resort of Varadero the island remains non-commercial, and the people genuinely friendly.
The capital, Havana, with its colonial architecture and ostentatious 50s and 60s cars, is the biggest Caribbean city and the hub of Cuban nightlife. Santiago de Cuba rivals Havana as a cultural haven. Much of the country is farmland; coffee, sugarcane and tobacco are grown and cattle grazed.
Despite political instability and US embargoes, Cuba's tourism industry is growing; visitors number over 2.3 million per year. But economic hardship and a heavy-handed government force several thousand Cubans to flee the country each year, plunging into the Florida Straits on home-made rafts or entering the US on falsified visas.
In July 2006 Castro, about to turn 80 and suffering from poor health, underwent intestinal surgery. His brother Raul stepped in to run the government in his absence, while around the globe people wondered whether Castro would pull through. Despite rumours that he had already died, a recent television appearance has shown that the world’s longest-serving leader has no plans of giving up the ghost just yet.
Best sites
· Art Nouveau Society. Architectural tour of Cuba.
· Free Cuba Foundation. US perspective.
· Buena Vista Social Club. The most popular Cuban jazz group in the west.
· Foreign Office travel advice
If you only do three things ...
Turn travelling with small children into a dream rather than a nightmare in Cuba. Or try cycling, an incredible way of getting around, getting fit and getting away from the tourist humdrum. And to finish, drink mojitos, dance salsa and generally cut loose in Havana.
News and current affairs
Cuba's online publications from the world news guide.
Language
Spanish; English spoken in hotels and tourist areas, but not much outside these places.
Climate
Very humid all year round, but north-east trade winds moderate the heat. Summer (May to October) is the wet season, with temperatures peaking at around 32C (90F) in July and August. You may prefer to visit in winter, from November to April, which is dry but still pleasantly warm even in February at 21C (70F). The east of the island, around Santiago de Cuba, is warmer than Havana. Hurricane season is August-November; monitor weather reports daily if you visit at this time of year.
Health
Vaccination against hepatitis A is recommended to avoid water and food-borne bacteria. Rabies and typhoid may also be necessary, depending on your itinerary. Insect repellent should be worn, as dengue fever can be present.
Food
The cuisine blends Spanish and African influences, using local produce; typical dishes include rice with black beans, roast pork, cassava or fried plantain. Eating in Cuba can be a challenge: food shortages are common and fresh fruit and vegetables are not always available. Tourists cannot use local stores, which operate on a rationed voucher system. Ordering at restaurants can take an age, and uninspiring menus are often compounded by unavailabilty of dishes. Vegetarians may have to subsist on cheese sandwiches, rice, salad, pizza and omelettes, as most bean dishes are cooked in animal fat. The best option may be to eat in people's homes where they can cook (as much as supplies allow) to your specification.
Events
Late February to March: Havana: Carvival and parades by the Capitol building in the centre of town, and along the Malecon boulevard.
December: Santiago de Cuba: Casa del Caribe, a promotion of Cuban Caribbean culture with workshops in dance, music, Afro-Cuban percussion and magic/religious practises.
What to buy
Cigars: the women who work in the many cigar factories are often paid in kind, so you may find cigars for sale on the street at a fraction of shop or duty-free prices. Rum: Havana club, standard, three-year old, five-year-old or older; worth waiting until you get to the airport to stock up. Che memorabilia: T-shirts, key-rings, lighters, glasses, you name it, you can buy it with the bearded man's iconic mug on it.
Embassies and visas
UK: Cuban Embassy 167 High Holborn, London WC1 6PA; Consular section: 15 Grape Street, London WC1 (020 7240 2488).
Cuba: British Embassy Calle 34, Number 702/4, entre 7ma Avenida y 17, Miramar, Havana (53 7 241 771).
Visa requirements: Virtually all visitors need a Cuban visa or tourist card, which allows a stay of 30 days. In the UK, visas for all nationalities cost £15 and can be obtained over the counter at the embassy, or direct from your travel agent. Postal visa applications take 1-2 weeks to process. Visitors need a return ticket, and proof that they have booked a hotel room for at least three nights. The US prohibits its citizens from travelling to Cuba unless they obtain a licence, usually reserved for journalists or government officials.
Currency
£1 buys around 1.75 Cuban convertible pesos, which visitors will have to use virtually all of the time. Confusingly, Cubans use a different peso (of which there are about 25 to a convertible peso) but these will rarely be accepted from foreigners in payment except at the smallest street stalls. Credit cards and travellers cheques issued by an American bank or company (eg Amex, Citibank, Diners Club) are not accepted in Cuba. Thomas Cook or Visa traveller's cheques and MasterCard or Visa credit cards issued outside the US are acceptable.
Timezone
GMT -5. Daylight saving time (GMT -4) from April to October.
Getting there
Almost everyone reaches Cuba by air; all flights land at Jose Marti airport near Havana. Virgin Atlantic and national carrier Cubana fly from the UK. Iberia sometimes offers discount flights via Madrid. Few cruise ships dock in Cuba, but some inter-island ferries exist in the Caribbean.
Related literature
Our Man in Havana, Graham Greene: A story of espionage and betrayal set against the colourful backdrop of Cuba's capital city.
Cuba and the Night, Pico Iyer: This story of the relationship between an American photographer and a young Cuban woman is also the story of Havana and the resilience of the Cuban people in the late Castro era.
