Once a month, on the night of the full moon, locals and visitors find their way to the small Swiss village of Grimentz in the Val d'Anniviers to see the "vue panoramique" by moonlight.
After the traditional fondue supper at the restaurant at the top of the gondola, you are launched into your skis and thrust on to a button lift going at full speed. Two more lifts take you to the top, from where you look out on to some of the world's most famous mountains circling the twinkling lights in the distant valley. Then you ski down the 1,200m descent by moonlight back to Grimentz and a welcoming vin chaud.
For beginners and intermediates, the Val d'Anniviers are five separate ski areas with gentle slopes and a variety of terrain and scenery. For adventurous skiers, the off piste is paradise with long descents and easy returns to civilisation by an efficient free bus service. If you are prepared to put skins on your skis, an hour's touring leads to unlimited skiing.
And if skiing is something you prefer to leave to others, you can join the locals for a spot of ice-fishing or follow the footsteps of the great Victorian climber Edward Whymper who first stayed here in 1859.
The valley is still beautiful and unspoilt. Five mountains over 4,000m, including the Matterhorn, make up the "Imperial Crown" and provide spectacular views. No British tour operators, with the exception of the independent-travel specialist Inntravel, have yet penetrated the French-speaking valley. While mass tourism is no doubt on the way, it is a joy to visit small Alpine villages that have remained largely unchanged for well over 400 years.
The small heart of Grimentz is a collection of ancient wooden dwellings with uneven walls and roofs bowing from the weight of snow and passage of time. The narrow, winding streets are barely wide enough for two people to walk side by side.
In a country where most inhabitants speak three languages fluently, we were surprised by the lack of English speakers. But the Anniviards are very hos pitable and never in a hurry.
Once, while skiing from Zinal on a beautiful route to Grimentz, we were invited by the director of the lift company to his " mayen ", a summer cattle shed across the pastures and through the trees. His had been in the family for generations.
There was a pot-bellied fire in a simple room with wood walls and floor, and a communal sleeping room. Fendant , the local white wine, flowed, cheese and bread were passed around. Eventually, we trekked back to our skis, through knee-high snow and set off in the dark down a winding cart-track. The route through the forest and along a trickling stream took us straight to our hotel where chamois steaks awaited us.
The practicals
The Switzerland Travel Centre (020 7734 1921) can book flights, rail tickets, car hire, accomodation and package holidays. Inntravel (01653 9629002) offers seven nights' half board in St Luc inc flights.
