The smallest Baltic state gained independence in 1918, managing 22 years before being annexed by the Soviets. Following the Nazi occupation of 1941-1944, the Soviet Union took it under its overprotective wing again and tried to quash any sign of national identity. Under Stalin around 60,000 Estonians were murdered or deported to the far reaches of the USSR, and Russian nationals were forcibly moved to Estonia.

National feeling rose dramatically in the 1980s and Estonia peacefully announced its independence in August 1991. Its 1.5m population is 65% Estonian and 28% Russian, but years of 'russification' have not encouraged cordial relations between the communities.

Estonia's capital Tallinn has a small, picturesque historical centre and has more recently made its mark on the European clubbing scene. Day-trips can be made to visit the ruins of Teutonic castles at country towns such as Parnu and Tartu. Estonia's landscape is pleasant and undramatic; its lakes, coast and islands are well worth visiting, especially in summer.

News and current affairs

Estonia's online publications from the world news guide.

Language

Estonian - a member of the Finno-Ugric group, with linguistic similarities to Finnish and Hungarian. Fortunately English and German are widely spoken. Russian is understood, but only as a last resort.

Climate

Continental; cool, dark and long winters, warmish, light summers. Temperatures average -2C (28F) in January and 19C (66C) in July.

Health

No immunisations are necessary for visiting Estonia; tap-water is drinkable.

Food

Pork, sausages, potatoes, cream, dill and solid rye breads. However, a number of new cafes and restaurants, especially in Tallinn, cater to the European palate. Owing to the influx of Scandinavian tourists, most places are extremely clean and efficient, but some err on the pricey side. Fish is usually smoked and served as a starter. Vegetarians get short shrift but will find some meat-free options at student-oriented cafes, and can point at the food to order in the Soviet style 'bistros'. For something cheap, filling and warm, try Estonian wild mushroom soup served with thick homemade bread. Saare beer, dark and heavy, is tasty; many bars serve mulled wine - useful against the bracing night air.

Events

March 10-12: Tallinn: Vinorum wine and beer festival.
July, first weekend: Lahemaa National Park: Viru Saru folk festival (every two years, even years) held in the beautiful surroundings of this coastal park.
July (every five years - next 2004) Tallinn: Estonia's biggest event, the All Estonian Song Festival, takes place on an enormous specially created stage, culminating in a huge chorus of people in national dress, singing Estonian songs.

What to buy

Chunky jumpers to protect against the Estonian winter; not cheap, but nice designs at the Tallinn craft market. Beer: Estonia's national brew is dark and malty.

Embassies and visas

UK: Estonian Embassy16 Hyde Park Gate, London SW7 5DG (020 75893428)
Estonia: British Embassy, Wismari 6, 10136 Tailinn (372 667 47 00).
Visa requirements: EU citizens do not need a visa for visits of up to 6 months. Australian, New Zealand and US citizens also do not require a visa.

Currency

£1 buys approx. 24.6 Estonian kroon (EEK).

Timezone

GMT +2.

Getting there

Flights arrive in Tallinn international airport, from where other areas of Estonia are easily reachable. Most flights are indirect (usually via Helsinki), but Estonian Air flies from London Gatwick to Tallinn six days a week; c/o Maersk Air (020 7333 0196). Good rail and bus links from the other Baltic states and Poland. Helsinki can be reached by ferry, or (in summer only) by hydrofoil.

Related literature

The Christening, Denise Neuhaus: Captures the paranoia of Soviet-era Tallinn.

The Czar's Madman, Jaan Kross: Estonia's most celebrated novelist uses historical tales to address contemporary themes.

The Same Sea in Us All; The Wandering Border, Jaan Kaplinski: Poems which capture Estonian life.