Travel may not be as fickle as fashion, but sometimes it's not far off. We have our favourites - New York, Paris, Rome, Barcelona - that never go out of fashion. But beyond the classics, what's hot and what's not can change with the seasons. War and natural disaster obviously influence our decision on where to avoid - last year, the Iraq conflict and Sars put a halt on tourism to the Middle East and Asia, although both are bouncing back for 2004.
After slowly rebuilding its tourism infrastructure over the past 10 years, Croatia proved a major hit last year, generating acres of column inches in the press as writers swooned over its unspoilt coastline and perfectly restored towns. City-wise, Posh and Becks' move to Madrid prompted a mountain of publicity telling us where to eat, shop and party like our favourite celebrity couple. Following the introduction of low-cost flights from the UK, Bratislava was hailed as the new Prague (it has an atmospheric old quarter and cheap beer and food, without the coachloads of tourists) and, after losing out to the Indian ocean in the luxury stakes, the Caribbean made a comeback, thanks to a host of new hotels such as Carlisle Bay in Antigua and refurbishments.
Rural retreaters
Puglia
Despite being a favourite among Italian holidaymakers, Puglia - the region that forms the heel of Italy - is relatively unknown beyond its own shores. But not for much longer. With Ryanair's daily Stansted-Bari service starting on January 15 and British Airways following suit in March with three flights a week, Puglia is already being dubbed the new Tuscany. It may not have the lush scenery or cities to rival Florence or Siena, but it does have some of the best beaches on the Adriatic, fantastic baroque towns such as Lecce and unique architecture - it is the only region in Italy where you'll find trulli - traditional conical, white-washed buildings. It's also about 25% cheaper than Tuscany, and you'll find culinary specialities you won't see on the menu anywhere else in Italy, like tiella , made from layers of courgettes, potato, tomatoes and mussels mari nated in wine and olive oil (Puglia produces 15% of the world's olive oil).
How much? Simply Travel has added Puglia for 2004, with a range of unusual accommodation including converted trulli and fortified farm houses (known as masseria ). A week at Trullo Giardino, a two-bedroom trullo just outside Cisternino, costs £515pp based on two sharing, inc car hire. New for Italian Expressions is the Masseria Torre Coccaro, a five-star hotel with bags of character, a private beach and an Aveda spa. Seven nights' B&B costs from £960pp inc flights and car hire. Ryanair flies to Bari from £39.98 return; British Airways has flights to Bari for £75 return inc taxes, until January 27.
Sicily
Flick through the Italy brochures and you'll find a lot more choice in Sicily this year. The launch of the first direct flights to the island (British Airways and Air Malta are each launching three flights a week to Catania, on May 2 and 4 respectively) has prompted operators to expand their programmes. Simply has mixed traditional tourist resorts (Taormina and Cefalù) with more unusual options such as the Atelier Sul Mar, a unique hotel with 15 "modern art" rooms, each designed by a different artist; and a three-room pension on the Tenuta di Regaleali wine estate in the heart of the countryside. Magic of Italy introduced the recently refurbished Hotel Villa Angela overlooking Taormina with views of Mount Etna or the sea, and three new villas.
How much? A week in May at Hotel Villa Angela costs £865pp including flights through Magic of Italy. Flights with Air Malta start at £119.60 inc taxes; British Airways has an offer price of £95 return, until January 27.
Corsica
This summer sees the launch of the first direct scheduled flight to the island (GB Airways starts a weekly Sunday service to Bastia on May 2), and, as with Sicily, improved access has led to a wider choice of accommodation. There are rural retreats, five-star resorts and excellent self-catering options. VFB holidays has added seven new properties including Casa Cassanincha, a three-bedroom villa overlooking Calvi and U Casone, a self-contained apartment occupying one floor of a historic house in the medieval village of Pietralba.
How much? A week at U Casone in June or July costs £583pp based on two sharing, inc flights, travel insurance and car hire, available through VFB Holidays. With East Midlands-Figari, Bristol-Calvi and Edinburgh-Bastia added for summer 2004, Corsican specialist Holiday Options now operates 12 charters a week from the UK. Among its 11 new properties, is the10-room Le Refuge in the ancient capital Corte. A return flight with GB Airways costs from £159, inc taxes.
Sophisticates
Saint-Tropez will always have a place in the hearts of the beautiful set; Brigitte Bardot made it famous in the 1950s; half a century later Kylie frolicked on the beach à la Bardot to advertise her new line of lingerie. In between, this millionaires' playground has attracted everyone who's anyone. It has the bars, clubs and hotels to cater for the most demanding diva, such as the legendary Byblos, which opened in 1967 and was the venue for P Diddy's 40th birthday party last year. The place to see and be seen is still Caves du Roy, Byblos's famous nightclub, such an institution, the hotel has released a Caves du Roy compilation CD.
If all this sounds a little too brash and showy, check into Le Beauvallon across the bay at Sainte-Maxim. Since it reopened in April last year, it has hosted a steady stream of celebs looking to escape the paparazzi's prying lenses, among them Kylie and Olivier Martinez and the Friends crew. Sainte-Maxim is just as beautiful as its flashier sister and only an eight-minute speed boat ride away, but offers a more discreet taste of the highlife.
How much? Le Beauvallon opens April 1: low season (April 1-June 15) rates start at €275; high season (June 16-September 9) at €320. Book a cheap flight to Nice through easyJet and splash out when you get there.
Antigua
Thanks to its high concentration of glitzy resorts, Barbados gets more coverage in the glossy gossip mags than any other Caribbean island. But celebs who prefer to stay out of the limelight will be hotfooting it over to the brand spanking new Carlisle Bay, sister hotel to One Aldwych in London. Set on a secluded beach with a backdrop of hills and rainforest, it has 88 suites, each with a private terrace or balcony, a spa (Blue) and fitness centre. But it's not just celebrities who will be enjoying its facilities; its philosophy is to make everyone feel comfortable in luxurious but unintimidating surroundings - no matter who they are.
How much? Seven nights' B&B at Carlisle Bay in a beach suite costs £2,176pp, including flights and transfers, through ITC Classics.
Cape Town
Fashion stylists and Hollywood producers have been using Cape Town as the backdrop to their shoots and films for years, but it's taken a while for the rest of us to cotton on to the city's style credentials. Sure, we knew about its sophisticated waterfront hotels, stunning scenery and the winelands on its doorstep, but there's a whole new side to the city opening up with chichi guests houses, ultra-hip nightclubs and bars to rival the trendiest in Europe. New restaurants to look out for are Tank and Andiamo Deli. Longer established, but equally impressive, is Five Flies, offering African specialities (try the tea-smoked springbok), and - this being Cape Town - fantastic seafood. Leading the club scene is stylish Rhodes House where the beautiful set come to enjoy the Latino vibe. Cape Town is perfectly viable as a long weekend destination- there's no jetlag, so you arrive early morning (relatively) fresh-faced, ready for three days of high living. And this year there's even more reason to get down there and party - South Africa celebrates 10 years since the end of apartheid.
How much? A three-night break at Kensington Place, a new designer hotel on the slopes of Table mountain, costs from £880 inc flights and car hire through Original Travel which can recommend the best restaurants and bars and get you on the guest list of the top clubs. For some ideas to get you started, log on to eat-out.co.za (for restaurants) and thunda.co.za (clubs).
Intrepid travellers
China
China was all set for a bumper year in 2003 as people rushed to see the Yangtze before it was dammed, then Sars hit and, along with anywhere else in the world where a surgical mask became the accessory du jour, China was wiped off the tourism map. Now, we're not only going back, we're venturing beyond the iconic sights. In the south-west, Yunnan is one of the provinces seeing an increase in foreign visitors, thanks largely to improved access by road and air. The main highlights are the capital Kunming and the towns of Dali and Lijiang with their bustling old quarters and scenic surrounds.
Less well-known than Yunnan is Guihou, a small province north of Guilin, where ethnic groups live pretty much as they have done for centuries. In the north of the country, Audley Travel has introduced Pingyao, a walled city half way between Beijing and Xian (home of the terracotta warriors), and added some character guest houses (a rarity for China) in Beijing; the quirky Red Capital Guest House stands out in particular. Its six rooms are decorated in the style of Chairman Mao's apartments.
How much? Audley Travel can put together a 20-day itinerary taking in the key sites (the Forbidden City, Tiananmen square, the Great Wall, the terracotta warriors), Pingyao, a cruise on the Li river, Kunming, Dali, Lijiang, the Tiger Leaping Gorge and Hong Kong. The price is £2,500pp with flights, B&B accommodation and private guide and driver, except in Hong Kong, for departure in April.
Bhutan
Seen India, Nepal, China... how about trying Bhutan next? It's remote, unspoilt (the Bhutanese still follow ancient customs and wear traditional costumes by order of the king) and exclusive; a trip to Bhutan doesn't come cheap - there's a fixed daily rate of $200pp set by the king, but it'll be a chance to witness a society largely untouched by the western world, where year-round festivals turn villages into a riot of colour against a stunning Himalayan backdrop. The big news is the opening this summer of Uma Paro, the country's first five-star resort, by Christina Ong, the hotelier behind The Metropolitan hotels in London and Bangkok, Parrot Cay in Turks and Caicos, and Cocoa Island in the Maldives. Built by local artisans, the hotel has 20 rooms and nine suites, and will feature a signature Shambhala spa, gourmet restaurant, glass-fronted yoga room, where the views alone will send you into a state of bliss, and hiking and biking excursions.
But don't worry, there is no danger of Bhutan being overun by hordes of Chanel-clad urbanites hoping to find their inner-Coco; for starters, the king will not allow visitor numbers to go above a certain limit (last year the country welcomed around 5,000). Secondly, no one goes to Bhutan to stay in one place - you move around which involves long bumpy journeys across mountain passes, staying in simple lodges along the way. What Uma Paro will do is give visitors a chance to spend the first or last couple of days of their trip in unashamed luxury.
How much? Rates are not available yet but will be soon at comohotels.co.uk.
Libya
Now that Colonel Gadafy is co-operating with the UN, could Libya be 2004's surprise hit destination in the Middle East? It has an exciting, lively capital where you can wander down Italian colonnades, get lost in Arabic souks and end a day's sightseeing in a Turkish hamman. Beyond Tripoli, you can take a 4x4 tour through the Sahara along ancient caravan routes to see incredible mud architecture, and visit some of the best preserved ancient ruins in the Mediterranean - must sees are the Roman cities of Leptis Magna and Sabratha, and the Greek cities of Cyrene and Apollonia.
How much? Heathrow-Tripoli with British Airways costs from £298.50 inc taxes for departures in March. ACE Study Tours offers a cultural tour led by a specialist in archaeology and ancient history, taking in the key attractions mentioned above, for £1,970pp inc flights, full-board accommodation, excursions and transfers, from March 20-April 3. Try also Nomadic Thoughts.
Sunseekers
Portugal
With the feel-good factor from the rugby world cup triumph still strong, the new year sees attention turning back to football, and more specifically Euro 2004. The championship is being held between June 12-July 4, with England kicking off their challenge at Da Luz stadium against France on June 13. Over the past year, new hotels have been built and existing ones refurbished: in Lisbon the Meridien Park Atlantic has reopened following an overhaul to bring it up to five-star standard, the Four Seasons The Ritz Lisbon has gained a spa and the Corinthia Alfa Hotel opens in May. But with Lisbon already well established as a popular city break, the tourist board is using the event to push the lesser-known host cities (there are eight in total), such as Coimbra (where England plays Switzerland on June 17), one of Europe's oldest university towns with a picturesque old quarter crammed with medieval monasteries and churches.
But it's not all football, football and more football. From June 4-6, Lisbon is hosting Rock in Rio, a massive music festival expected to attract crowds of up to 100,000 a day. With these two events running back to back, accommodation in June and July is going to be extremely tight, so book sooner rather than later.
How much? The Villa Agency has over 200 properties in the Algarve and on the Lisbon coast from apartments for two to country estates sleeping 18. Prices from £196 a week. It has a policy of no single-sex group bookings during Euro 2004.
Greece
Greece is the word this year as the world's athletes descend on the country for the 2004 Olympics. Much of the attention will be focused on Athens but the tourist office will also be pushing the four other host cities and their surrounds: Volos at the tip of the Pelion peninsula; Thessaloniki, gateway to Halkidiki; Heraklion, the capital of Crete, and Patras in the western Peloponnese, a stunningly attractive region with some of the finest beaches in Greece.
New hotels to look out for include Asterias Suites, on an ecological reserve in Halkidiki, which manages to be both sexy and family friendly (there's an excellent kids' club on site). Each of its 50 suites has a Jacuzzi bathroom and all mod cons, and there's a fantastic open-sided bar with sea views.
The latest addition to Cyprus's luxury accommodation is Aphrodite Hills on the south-west coast. Among its first guests will be 160 British athletes using the resort as their training base. At the centre of this impressive £150 million resort is a 290-room InterContinental hotel with an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts, academy, spa and gym.
How much? Seasons in Style has a week's B&B at the Asterias Suites (reopening in April) for £865pp, inc flights and transfers.
Spain
Spain is our favourite holiday destination. It's official - last year it overtook France for the first time in 10 years, attracting a whopping 12.5 million visitors. The Costa del Sol is perfect for a lively bucket and spade holiday but families after a more authentically Spanish experience head for the Costa de la Luz, which this year is even more accessible thanks to a new Ryanair flight to Jerez, starting January 15. Madrid and Barcelona take the lion's share of city-breakers, but Valencia is gaining a reputation as one of Europe's most forward-thinking cities thanks to its City of Arts and Sciences and last year's Biennal. This year, if you're going back to Madrid, add on a couple of extra days to explore the Castilian towns of Toledo, Segovia and Ávila. All within easy reach of the capital, they harbour ancient alleyways, royal palaces, gardens and traditional food.
How much? A return Ryanair flight in April (1-8) costs £92.84 inc taxes. The Individual Travellers Spain has a range of villas, cortijos and fincas in western Andalucia.
Weekend breakers
Spanish cities
Madrid has some of the best museums in Europe, and they're about to get better. In a massive project backed by €147m of government funds, the city's three most important art institutions - the Prado, Reina Sofia Art Centre and Thyssen-Bornemisza - are gaining an additional 52,000 sq m of exhibition space. The project, dubbed Paseo del Arte (all three are within a few minutes' walk of each other) is due for completion this year.
If you thought Barcelona had more than its fair share of cultural treasures, think again. This summer, the city becomes a cultural hotbed with thousands of exhibitions and events being stage in the name of Forum 2004. Many of the events will be held in a newly constructed facility by the sea, and each one will be based on one of the three core themes of cultural diversity, sustainable development and conditions for peace. Exhibition highlights include The Warriors of Xi'an with archaeological finds from the Qin and Han dynasties and a showcase of world cities, not to mention 450 concerts and a month-long presentation by the contemporary circus Les Art Sauts. And as if that isn't enough to stimulate the mind for one year, Figueres, in northern Catalonia, celebrates the 100th anniversary of the birth of Salvador Dalí (salvador-dali.org, dali2004.info).
How much? Kirker has four nights for the price of three at Villa Real in Madrid, within walking distance of the three museums, for £585 inc flights. In Barcelona, book into Gran Hotel La Florida, on Mount Tibidabo overlooking the city. It has recently been refurbished to the tune of £25m; in its previous incarnation James Stewart, Rock Hudson and Zsa Zsa Gabor all stayed there. A weekend escape package in April costs £429 and includes two nights' B&B, cava and fresh fruit, one massage, one dinner and private city tour. Flights are extra.
Lille
To celebrate its designation as a European Capital of Culture, Lille is laying on a year-long programme of cultural events. One of the most important exhibitions is Rubens at the magnificent Palais des Beaux-Artes from March 6-June 14.
In keeping with the highbrow theme of your visit, check into the historic Hermitage Gantois, a four-star hotel housed in a listed 1463 building on Rue de Paris, which opened in September after a two-year renovation.
You can't enjoy fine art on an empty stomach so make sure you make time for a long lunch at one of the city's fantastic restaurants, such as the Michelin-starred L'Huitrière, a mosaic-fronted seafood restaurant or Alcide, an atmospheric, wood-panelled brasserie - order the moules frites. But the best thing about Lille? It's only an hour and 50 minutes from London on Eurostar's new high-speed service.
How much? Eurostar tickets from £55 return; rooms at the Hermitage Gantois from €190-240 per night.
The Baltic cities
Riga, Vilnius and Tallinn have already gained some attention as alternative city break destinations; but with Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania joining the European Union in May this year, they are likely to move into the spotlight. All three offer historic centres, atmospheric, good value bars and restaurants and some stylish hotels. The most recent is the Three Sisters in Tallin, the only member of the Design Hotel Group in the Baltics. Created from three medieval houses, it has open fireplaces, beamed ceilings and a cellar restaurant. Equally atmospheric is the nearby Schossle, housed in a 16th-century building. In Vilnius, Narutis is a stylish property located in a 16th-century building.
How much? Kirker Holidays has three nights' B&B at the Three Sisters for £572pp between March 25 and October 31 inc flights and transfers. Regent Holidays can tailormake tours to all three cities.
Longhaulers
North west Australia
If you're looking for somewhere in Australia your friends back home haven't been to, fly into Perth and head north. The Kimberley is a vast wilderness with one of the country's most spectacular natural sights (the Unesco-listed Purnululu national park). Spend a few days in the coastal resort town of Broome, once the pearling capital of the world. Thanks to the large numbers of immigrants - Europeans, Malays, Chinese - who came to make their fortune in the pearling industry, Broome has a cosmopolitan feel, its streets lined with art galleries and bistros serving up Asian fusion food, despite being one of the most remote towns in the world. Then there's Cable beach, consistently voted one of the world's best - when you first set eyes on the 22km of golden sand, it's not hard to see why. A sunset camel ride along the beach is an absolute must - as is a cocktail at the Mangrove hotel while you wait for "the staircase to the moon" (the light of the full moon reflecting on the mudflats). If you have time, head further north to Cape Leveque at the tip of the Dampier peninsula, an Aboriginal-owned lodge with a selection of cabins and tents on stilts offering uninterrupted views of the ocean.
How much? Singapore Airlines flies to Perth from £620 exc taxes in February. Qantas flies Perth to Broome for A$259 one-way. Virgin Blue flies to Broome from Adelaide. Cable Beach Resort in Broome costs from A$144 per room per night (based on a four-night stay), valid until March 31.
Mozambique
Civil war and floods have held back Mozambique's development as a tourist destination. It is popular with South Africans who drive up from KwaZulu Natal and the odd intrepid backpacker in search of empty paradise beaches (of which there are plenty). But otherwise, it has largely been ignored by international travellers. Until now. It is not a safari destination (it will take years for game shot during the war to be replenished) but it does have an incredible stretch of pristine coastline and idyllic islands waiting to be discovered. It offers pure escapism - as beautiful as the Maldives but without the hovering white-gloved beach butlers armed with chilled face towels. The Bazaruto archipelago consists of five sand islands where white beach gives way to palm trees and lush vegetation.
How much? Seven nights' full-board at Marlin Lodge on Benguerra island, part of the Bazaruto archipelago, starts at £998pp, inc return flights from Johannesburg, transfers, non-motorised water-sports and several excursions. Book through Audley Travel.
Baja California
Mexico's desert peninsula offers a very different experience to the rest of the country - there are no archaeological sites of note and some of the tourist towns are quite Americanised, but venture beyond these and you'll find a dramatic landscape of towering cacti and granite boulders. Couple this with one of the world's most abundant seas (the sea of Cortez) and you have the perfect setting for an action-packed holiday. When you're not recreating scenes from your favourite Western, you'll be kayaking around the rocky coast, scanning the horizon for whales (between December and April, gray whales migrate from the Bering sea to the warmer waters surrounding Baja) or scuba diving. And if that's not enough of a draw, One&Only Resorts is opening its first venture in the Americas this February. Located near San José del Cabo at the southern tip of the peninsula, One&Only Palmilla will be as stylish and slick as its sister properties, giving Baja's existing celebrity-magnet, Las Ventanas al Paraiso, a run for its money. Palmilla has already recruited Las Ventanas's managing director, and its restaurant will be overseen by award-winning American chef Charlie Trotter. Trust us, this is about as far away from Only Fools and Horses as you can imagine.
How much? From £360 per room per night through Cox & Kings.