I lost my heart in… Malta

Lionel Blue
  
  


Why: I went there in the 1960s with a friend who was convalescing, and I fell in love with the place because Malta is a world in miniature. It has everything - its own government, its own language, its own roccoco architecture and even a place where you can get away from everything in Goza, the next island along. Malta is only about 15 miles by about five or six, but if you get into the locals' way of thinking, going a couple of miles up the road into town is a bit of an event, and going to Valletta - a 15-minute drive away - needs careful consideration. Malta has a tremendous history and the prehistoric temples are still pretty much intact. There are churches everywhere and Maltese religion is pretty gentle. There is one church with a postbox by the altar, where you send your letters to the Almighty. I often wondered where they ended up.

What's the best thing? Maltese bread. It's round and flat. You should eat it fresh with their big mishapen tomatoes, fresh garlic and olive oil, washed down with a bottle of altar wine. I was introduced to altar wine by a priest. It's excellent.

My advice: Get there fast before all the countryside disappears, and make time to go in the winter when it is quite cheap. You might be unlucky with the weather at that time of year, but there are fewer tourists then. You should sit in a café in Valletta at midday with a glass of wine, a little curried- pea Maltese pastie and watch the world go by. Then come back in the evening and watch the boys and girls.

How do I get there? Seven nights' B&B accommodation in the three-star Carolina Hotel in Bugibba costs £271pp with Cadogan Holidays (0238 0828306). Price includes return scheduled flights from Gatwick.

• Sun Sand And Soul, by Lionel Blue and Jonathan Magonet, is published by Hodder & Stoughton at £6.99.

 

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