The last thing I expected to find on Dartmoor was a boutique displaying limited-edition beaded chokers, vintage Swarovski rhinestone brooches and fine American cotton aprons which wouldn't look out of place in an episode of Desperate Housewives.

Clearly creating a dining pub of not inconsiderable local renown doesn't stretch owners Philip and Karen Burgess's creative talents far enough, as not only is there the little shop at the back, but also three guest bedrooms upstairs, just completed and each eclectically furnished.

There is a synergy about the food, where you eat it, the bar; a restful, rustic style to it all - but one that comes with a liberal dash of sauce. Bedrooms are uncluttered but have sexy satin or silk quilts and throws. There are no TVs; the antique beds seem to suggest there are better things to do. Downstairs, more tactile comfort is found in the five separate dining areas which circumnavigate the bar, all subtly lit, warmed by real fires and decorated in muted tones and clever textures. Even the wallpaper seems to say "touch me."

As for the food, it sparkles as much as those rhinestones. A starter of brill tart was just that - with pearly discs of Jerusalem artichoke sitting beneath the creamy white fish. Followed by the inn's famous fish and chips - melt-in-the-mouth batter and delicious green mayonnaise for chip dipping - and a jolly nice half-bottle of Fleurie. Only an early morning walk on the moor enabled me to consider breakfast - something of a tour de force here, with little pots of chocolate mousse and rice pudding, salad of peeled grapes and mango, Devon splits with clotted cream and jam and, lordy, escalope of beef fillet with a fried egg on top.

I only dropped in for a night, but frankly I'd happily have stayed a week.

The Dartmoor Inn (01822 820221, dartmoorinn.com). B&B £90-£115 per night (£80-£100 for stays of two nights or more). Expect to pay around £28 a head for a three-course dinner, or £18 for two-course Sunday lunch, excluding drinks. Linen and Lunch event, Friday March 17, coffee at the boutique, and special lunch menu, £17.50. The inn is one of 50 entries in the new free Trencherman's Guide to eating in the south west, out next month. Order a copy at indulgesouthwest.co.uk.

· sally.shalam@theguardian.com