The country

Istanbul is a must, and much of the rest of the country is fascinating, too. Most Brits go for the beaches, many of which are beautiful, and the sailing, although some areas, such as Bodrum, have been tackified beyond repair. Historical sites of interest abound, from Ephesus to Gallipoli. The further east you go, the further you leave the west behind. On the downside, terrorist groups have recently targeted tourists in Turkey while the government has come under fire for its human rights record, especially against the Kurds.

Situated at the juncture of Europe and Asia, and of the Christian and Islamic worlds, Turkey is home to 72.3m people. The country's capital is Ankara, but its history and culture are perhaps better represented in the former capital, 3000-year-old Istanbul (once Constantinople) - a bustling city of mosques, churches and palaces, and still a significant port.

Of the numerous historical sites, Harran, the home of Abraham and sacred to Judaism, Christianity and Islam, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world. The supposed ruins of ancient Troy are on the outskirts of Canakkale. Other significant sites are Miletus and Ephesus. Recent history can be explored on the Gallipoli battlefields. A generous coastline has much to offer beach lovers and watersports enthusiast - there are climbing and skiing centres further inland. The many thermal baths and spas include the striking salt pools at Pamukkale.

Despite the terrorist threat (see below) Turkey is still a relatively safe country to visit, although almost everyone has an “I nearly died” bad-driving story. Visitors should take precautions against avian flu following outbreaks in 2006. Other people may be put off visiting Turkey by the government’s suppression of dissent, including the alleged use of torture. Women travellers may receive a certain amount of hassle and outside of resort areas should wear clothes that cover arms, legs and shoulders.

Terrorism

The Foreign Office describes the threat from terrorism in Turkey as high. It believes international groups linked to al-Qaida, as well as domestic groups, principally the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK), to be active. Attacks on tourist resorts in late 2006 resulted in deaths and injury, including of foreign nationals. The British consulate-general in Istanbul was bombed in 2003, killing 33 people and injuring hundreds.

Best sites

· Turkish Daily News News and events in English, updated daily.
· Aka Kurdistan Beautifully presented brief history of the Kurdish race and culture, with timeline, old and modern photographs of Kurdish families plus audio downloads of their stories.
· Galatasaray Unofficial Galatasaray site, with the history of the club and the fans' favourite songs translated into English.
· HiTiT Turkey Most websites which describe themselves as alternative should be avoided like the plague. This is a rare exception.
· The CIA World Factbook
· The Foreign Office travel advice

If you only do three things ...

Explore both Europe and Asia in Istanbul. Follow in the footsteps of the Virgin Mary and St Paul to Ephesus. Dance the night away, or relax on nearby beaches in the pretty, but loud, coastal resort of Bodrum.

News and current affairs

Turkey's online publications from the world news guide.

Language

Turkish, which uses the Roman alphabet. Turkey has a one language policy, and although Kurdish is spoken in the south-east of the country it cannot be taught or used to teach in schools or used in broadcasts. English and German are widely spoken in tourist areas and cities.

Climate

The coast and Istanbul are most pleasant and less crowded in mid-autumn and spring. Eastern Turkey can be impossible to travel through in winter, when many routes become blocked with snow. The height of summer is extremely hot, with temperatures averaging around 30C and reaching 45C in the south-east.

Health

Vaccinations against diphtheria, hepatitis A, tetanus and polio are not required but recommended. Visitors to the Marmara or Black Sea coasts should consider anti-malaria precautions. Drink bottled water only and eat well-cooked food to avoid stomach upsets.

Food

Lamb is the most popular meat - shish and doner kebabs of varying quality are ubiquitous. More adventurous dishes, such as lamb stewed with garlic and herbs, are also served. Seafood, in particular swordfish and red mullet, can be delicious but is often expensive; dolma - stuffed vine leaves - is a common starter or main course. Vegetarians should sample the tasty imam kayildi - sliced aubergine with a tomato and onion sauce with spices, or meze, a course of starters such as hummus, tzatziki and fried haloumi cheese, served with delicious Turkish bread and olives. Desserts are sweet and sticky, squidgy cakes, or gooey honey and nut pastries; the ice cream is adequate, but nothing special. Tea, served without milk, but with sugar, is the most popular drink. Turkish beer is passable, but foreign brands of beer and wine are easy to find. The local spirit is raki - a strong aniseed flavoured grape brandy. It is not a good idea to openly drink alcohol during Ramadan. Turkish coffee is served black, sweet, strong and grainy.

Currency

£1 buys approximately 2.7 Turkey New Lira (TNL). ATMs are common in resorts and larger towns and cities. Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted credit cards. Travellers cheques can be changed in most banks, but some visitors have claimed difficulties with Amex ones.

Events

January: Kurban Bayrami is the most important Islamic festival of the year and a five-day public holiday. Try not to arrive at the beginning or end of the festival. Make sure accommodation is booked in advance.
April: The Istanbul International Film Festival has presented nearly 2,000 films from more than 60 countries and attracted more than two million people since it began in 1984.
April: Services at Gallipoli to remember the first world war wounded.
June and July: Aspendos Opera and Ballet Festival - operas and ballets performed in the 20,000-capacity Aspendos Antique Theatre in Antalya. Istanbul International Festival of the Arts
September: Elmali Oil Wrestling Festival. The toughest Turkish boys take each other on at the 600-year-old festival. Elmali is a little mountain town 2,000m above sea level in the Taurus Mountains, inland from the Turquoise Coast. The event takes place in the large stadium, signposted on arrival in the town. Wrestlers come from all over Turkey in the hope of winning the title. The contest lasts for three days and over 100 wrestlers participate.

What to buy

Carpets, both knotted (hali) and woven (klim), many of which are still handwoven. Leather goods - bargain for them in the bazaars. Ceramics, beautifully painted, also in markets and bazaars. Copperware - engraved teapots, trays and water pipes. Boncuks - glass stones, often warn as necklaces, said to ward off the evil eye. Meerschaum pipes - popular throughout Europe from the times of the Ottoman Empire.

Embassies and visas

UK: Turkish Consulate General Rutland Lodge, Rutland Gardens, London SW7 1BW (020 7591 6900).
Turkey: British Embassy Sehit Ersan Caddesi 46a Cankaya Ankara (+90 312 455 3344). Consulates in Antalya, Bodrum, Iskenderun, Istanbul, Izmir, Marmaris and Mersin.
Visa requirements: UK, Canadian, US, Australian and Israeli passport holders need a visa, which costs £10 and can be obtained in advance or on arrival in Turkey. Overstaying your visa will result in a substantial fine upon departure. Citizens of New Zealand, South Africa and most western European countries do not need a visa for stays of up to three months.

Time zone

GMT +2.

Getting there

Scheduled international flights arrive at Istanbul, Izmir and Ankara; many charter flights at destinations on the Mediterranean coast. The national carrier, Turkish Airlines, operates flights from many big international cities. There are train and bus links to western Europe, and ferry links to Greece, Italy, Ukraine and nearby ports. Border crossings exist with Iran, Iraq, Georgia, Bulgaria, Armenia and Syria - the latter supposedly easier than the others. For more information, contact the Turkish Tourist Board (020 7839 7778).

Related literature

Innocents Abroad, Mark Twain The author writes of his travels through Europe to the Holy Land, including Turkey, in the 19th century.
Memed My Hawk, Yasur Kemal By this outspoken writer who has openly criticised Turkey's treatment of the Kurds.
The White Castle or The Black Book, Orhan Pamuk Deals with historical and contemporary characters in Istanbul.