Good morning!
Today I'm off to Bandipur National Park to see some elephants and tigers. The WWF have a project there to save the tiger and its habitat. There are only about 75 tigers left in Bandipur, so I hope I get to see one. I'm going with an Indian guy I met who works for National Geographic over here.
I desperately need to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city. I think I've seen one too many temples, museums and palaces. They are all interesting, but an overdose of Hindu gods and history is beginning to take its toll. I'm really looking forward to the break and getting back to nature, as it were.
I did go to a bird sanctuary yesterday, which was lovely and peaceful. I took a boat trip there and saw so many beautiful birds - storks, cormorants, egrets, herons, spoon bills, cranes, kites... I could go on, but I don't want to bore all you non-bird watchers. The birdsong was incredibly soothing after the usual shouting of street sellers and the constant tooting of horns which I have grown accustomed to. I wish I'd brought my dictaphone to capture some of the sounds.
I've got into cricket since I've been here. I don't really know how it happened. I started watching the India-Australia test match series and was instantly addicted! I'd never watched cricket before, having assumed that it was boring, but it's actually completely gripping. I am now converted and was thrilled when India won.
I am also learning to eat with my right hand. It is a little hard for me, being a lefty, but I struggle on. I certainly can't break the tradition here (left for toilet, right for food), although I would much prefer to use my left. Rice is the hardest. I haven't yet managed to use my left for toilet, mind you, but give it time!
I met a lovely lady on the bus from Bangalore to Mysore (where I am now) and she invited me over to her home. I decided to go along, and it was wonderful. She fed me, of course, but no one else ate - the whole family just sat and watched me while I tucked in. It was quite unnerving, I couldn't relax and I kept dropping bits of rice everywhere. Then after I had eaten, they all sat down to dinner without me! That aside, it was good to sit in a family home and find out how people here really live.
Families here are usually big and extended. The women tend to do everything (cooking, cleaning, etc) and they work very hard. The sons' wives will move into his family home and become almost like daughters there. You probably know this already, but it is interesting to see.
People have been very friendly and welcoming, which has been nice, since I have been alone. However, the constant questions can get wearing. People always want to know if I am married, and when I say no they want to know why not, and why my parents haven't arranged it. I am sure it would be different if I was male. I met a woman on a bus yesterday, and she bombarded me with marriage questions. She insisted I predict my future husband, his characteristics and career etc. I just fobbed her off with some rubbish, but as she left she said 'Your dreams will come true'. It was all bit freaky.
Sometimes I wish people would leave me alone. I miss the anonymity of London: peaceful tube journeys where no one talks to you and you are left to daydream. Oh well - can't complain. I should be glad anyone is interested in talking to me. I do try and ask questions back to learn more about the people, so I gain as well.
To be honest, I am feeling slightly emotionally exhausted at the moment. All the poverty and begging is beginning to depress me. There are scams everywhere, you can't trust anyone. Someone will point something out at a temple without me asking and then charge for it! The priests are at it too. They always force some ritual on you (turmeric on the head, for example) and then demand money. Somebody told me that many people here believe that our governments give us loads of money for free (presumably they're referring to benefits), so we have plenty to spend. If only they knew how minimal benefits really are.
Wherever I go, I always have an entourage of postcard sellers, beggars, children and more. I feel like the Pied Piper of Hamelin half the time.
Anyway, I'm leaving all this stress behind today, to enter the jungle and embrace the tigers (I wish!). I am sure the monkeys will bug me for food.
