The Axel hotel was recently voted the world's premier gay boutique hotel by the readers of Out magazine, and I was keen to see whether it lived up to such acclaim. The hotel calls itself "heterofriendly", and the reception staff certainly lived up to the second part of that description. They were also impeccably dressed, in slim-cut black suits teamed with hot-pink T-shirts.
The contrast between the sombre, classical exterior and the hyper-fashionable, futuristic lobby was the first thing that had struck me about the hotel but, on entering, the cool marble floors broken up with flashes of colourful sofas and chairs made a pleasing impression. Our room, decorated in fashionable neutral tones, comfortably contained a king-size bed, which I immediately sat on: not too hard and not too soft, it passed the test.
I next noticed the artwork suspended on the wall: a large oblong figure of a reclining, nude man, set in perspex. "Very modern," I thought. Then my companion flicked a switch set apparently randomly in the wall. The artwork was a lightbox - a big, naked man lightbox. Leaving my friend with our new roommate, I went to inspect the rest of the hotel.
The rooms have no mini-bar, but each floor is equipped with a refrigerator with complimentary bottles of mineral water – a healthy alternative to mini bottles of gin. Passing the business centre on the mezzanine level, I came across the in-house boutique with its scattering of attractive but wallet-slimming clothing, looked over by a sales assistant only too eager to help me to spend my money.
I left the boutique with a sweater I absolutely did not need and headed to the roof terrace. The "sky bar" makes imaginative use of the space available, with decking, water features and superb views across the city. Around the corner from it is a small swimming pool, a gym, a sauna and, best of all, a jacuzzi - very Club Tropicana.
I looked out over the city, deciding where to go first. Located in the district of Barcelona nicknamed Gayxample, Hotel Axel is surrounded by gay bars and restaurants and is only a few minutes' walk from the Universitat metro station. Five minutes beyond the metro stop is Macba, the museum of contemporary arts, designed by the American architect Richard Meier. Stroll down Las Ramblas, the city's main boulevard, perhaps stopping for lunch at Café Viena (Las Ramblas 115, 933 171 492). Try, with a nice cold beer, the magnificent flauta de'ibérico D E jabugo sandwich - stuffed with ham from a pig with its own denominated origin, like a top-class wine.
Back at the hotel, my friend and I, after spending too much time in the chunkily designed, pristine bathroom, descended to the open-plan restaurant and bar. The rich, dark hues and soft lighting made for a suitable evening ambience. The margaritas are recommended - but unusually strong. After a few of them, we moved on to Café Dietrich's (Consell De Cent 225), a classic little bar with cabaret, plush decor and more excellent drinks.
The next morning, dragging ourselves out of a bed that fully lived up to expectations, we went downstairs for a sumptuous Mediterranean breakfast of cured meats, cheeses and pastries. There were healthy options, too, such as fresh fruit, cereals and yoghurt, but the naughty things proved irresistible.
The Axel deserves its reputation; it is an elegant, stylish and comfortable hotel and, having seen some straight couples at breakfast, I vouch that it could even call itself heterofriendly. We look forward to visiting its sister hotel, soon to open in Buenos Aires, to see if the magic can happen a second time.
• Axel Hotel, Aribau 33 (+34 93 323 93 93). Single rooms start at €89 and doubles from €137
