Today I am in another phase of my travels. Today is also my daughter's birthday - happy birthday Rachel. I can't believe my baby is 20! I will be phoning her soon when it's a decent hour back home.
During my last couple of days in Nepal, legs back in working order, I met up with a young French woman, Valerie. We decided to take the trolley bus out to Bhaktapur. It was like being in a rickety tube in the rush hour, but with the added dimensions of spitting on the floor and huge baskets of wares on people's heads. I was dismayed to find that since my last brief visit to the city less than two weeks before, the entrance fee had increased by 150%. Amazing where a little wandering down lanes and up alleys will lead you. This time I did buy a little pottery elephant as a memento. I do love the place.
A black spot at this time was when I discovered that I had somehow lost Rachel's tape. It wasn't just the music and the link, but she had put a photo of us having a cuddle in the case and also a little note that I hadn't yet read. I felt very upset - but she is making another one.
There are many images of Nepal that will stay with me: the spectacular landscape; the scene at every water tap of the women always washing either the clothes, the children or their long, thick black hair; the calf muscles of the sherpas; the slow steady plod of women walking up the hills carrying huge baskets tied across their heads full of the packs and camping gear of trekkers; waking up to the bustle of the Tamil area of Kathmandu, and the sound of endless hawking and spitting which they do with great gusto; the humour of the people. I will miss it all.
On Monday I flew back to Bombay. Having my Swiss army knife removed at the security check, I waited about an hour at the other end for it to be returned to me as promised and then gave up. My bag will be much lighter if I carry on like this.
It is amazing what a difference a few weeks makes. Bombay no longer seemed so scary and the hawkers and beggars seemed less interested, or I found it easier to brush them aside, I am not sure which. That evening I met Steve and Bobbie, a pair of wandering musicians from Devon, who had made contact through the website. They took me out to dinner at the Taj hotel, Bombay's poshest. It was a most enjoyable evening in unaccustomed splendour. My thanks to them, it was much appreciated.
And so, on late Tuesday evening, I was off to Singapore, where I arrived at 7.30 in the morning. The flight was made more difficult by the man next to me continuously fidgeting and picking at various bits of himself. I am surprised he had any hair or face left by the time we landed. My nephew, Daniel, met me at the airport, easily recognisable by the distinct family likeness, despite the years since we had met. He lives in a flat in a lovely combo, with its own swimming pool and gym (I haven't tried either). It is again a touch of luxury and very enjoyable for a few days.
As for Singapore, I could not believe the difference from the Indian subcontinent. It is so clean and green, all the people so affluent and well dressed, the traffic moves in an orderly fashion down the four lane, one-way systems, the taxis and buses ferry you around efficiently in air-conditioned comfort. I found it disconcerting, unreal and alien at first but I confess to being inordinately excited that you could flush the paper down the loo. In fact in some toilets if you take too long the loo flushes automatically. A bit startling at first when you are relaxing and enjoying not having to rush out so that you dare breath again.
I spent another incongruous evening in an Irish bar, which could have been an English pub but for the fact that the staff were Singaporian and the band were Australian. I spent Thursday exploring Singapore, mostly on foot, a tiring occupation in the humidity. First, down Orchard road, full of shopping malls. Being one of the few women who does not like shopping I was content to wander, wondering how so many people can shop so much in so many shops. On to Raffles, to soak up the colonial atmosphere. Not having been able to stand gin since I was very ill on it as a student, I didn't have a gin sling. Next a boat ride on the river in a 'bum boat'. There was an immaculately timed taped commentary as you passed each landmark. I was doing really well finding my way about until I wanted to go back after eating, at about 9.30. Scorning the long taxi queue I walked, trying to hail one as I went. Soon utterly lost and very tired, I stood under many street lights trying to read the map until I managed to find my way back to Orchard road and a taxi. At that time of night the taxis will not pick you up if it is time for them to eat or if you are not going in the direction they fancy. I finally reached Daniel's at 11.30.
Today I have booked a flight to Kuching in Eastern Malaysia for Sunday, made contact with my son's girlfriend's Uncle Steven and posted off my first parcel home, which includes Rachel's birthday present. It will probably arrive about April. The thought was there today! I also went to China town, which had some of the vibrancy and colour that I have missed since arriving here. I will probably go to Sentosa Island tomorrow as I want to ride the cable car that several of you have mentioned. It was going to be the night safari tonight but, as ever, this report has taken longer than expected, so sorry Gemma, I am probably going to choose my bed instead. Maybe on my way back. Singapore is very comfortable and enjoyable, but I am looking forward to exploring again in Malaysia.
Time to ring my daughter now. Bye until next week from Malaysia.
