· When I asked a local woman which areas she would advise tourists to avoid, she sniffed and said, 'We don't really go in for bad areas here, dearie'. She has a point, but some residential areas are as deprived as any in Glasgow. Most visitors are unlikely go near most of them, but one place to look out for is Cowgate. It adjoins the Grassmarket and can form part of a lovely day's wandering and shopping. There are signs, however, that it can be tricky at night. The evening we strayed there we found vomit, broken glass and policemen clearing up after a fight.

· The Royal Mile is gracious, historic and in many ways it is not to be missed, but some of it is over-run with touristy shops of the shortbread and sporran variety.