I am now in Mumbai after an eventful week. I left you last in the cool breezes of the Nilgiri Hills. Did I tell you how the landscape reminded me of England? It was like driving through the Lake District (although the cows and sheep here were grazing on the hills rather than burning in pyres).
We drove all day and night until we reached the Tibetan settlements, where we stayed for a few days. On the way we passed through a couple of the national parks and saw a herd of 20 elephants! It was very exciting driving through the jungle at night. Still no tigers, though my friend Pappan has promised I'll see one up north. I hope so.
We arrived late and the next day visited the settlements and monasteries. I was able to talk to some of the Tibetan people there, thanks to Pappan who kindly translated for me. I asked many questions about the Tibetan cause, the community, the monastery, Buddhism, their philosophy, their struggle... It was fascinating and I learnt so much. I felt slightly sorry for Pappan, though: he translated for nearly two hours!
The Tibetans were friendly and welcoming, and showed us all around the monastery and temples. I felt like I wasn't in India anymore - suddenly all the faces around me in the street were Tibetan, which was really strange.
We headed up to Jog Falls, which was truly beautiful. We spent a few days there relaxing by the falls and swimming in them. We stayed in a chalet at the top overlooking the falls; at night you could hear the water while you were falling asleep. I slept very well there.
We drove to Goa through even more lush countryside and spent a while there, staying on different beaches. They just kept getting better. I'd had images of busloads of Brits on package holidays, burnt lobster red, but it wasn't like that at all. Of course there were some developed, touristy areas but where we stayed it was very natural, quiet and almost deserted, with long, white, sandy beaches, coconut palm trees and small fishing boats. I would sit and watch the young fishermen push their boats out to sea in the early morning, just before dawn, when the moon was still shining. We slept in little huts on the beach and I ate lots of sweet pineapple. It was paradise.
I frequently feel quite undeserving of these wonderful experiences. I feel like I should be back at home working hard. What am I doing out here, lying on golden beaches, swimming in the Arabian Sea? Should I feel guilty?
It was the Jewish festival of Pesach (Passover) while I was in Goa, so I looked out for some Israelis, which wasn't hard, and spent it with them. We ate the special traditional meal together and it was really lovely. I missed my family of course, but it was nice sitting around a table with fellow Jews on the other side of the world, singing lots of Pesach songs.
I did some trekking in the small jungle behind the beach. I found a beautiful banyan tree (the branches fell everywhere like stalactites), and I met a small group of travellers there who had decided to make it their home. They had drums and guitars and all sorts of instruments, so we sang and played music by the fire, under the tree all night long. Sunsets on the beach were stunning and full as ever.
We picked up some Germans in Arumbal and drove to Mumbai (15 hours!). It was a long, tiring drive and when we hit the city I wondered why I had left the peace and quiet of the beach. But now I'm here I am quite enjoying a bit of city life; clubbing, art galleries, markets, museums, temples, well-dressed city people... I am a city girl at heart.