One of the main monuments from the Cathar period in Toulouse (Cathar's cradle, June 15) is the church of Les Jacobins, built by the Dominicans in 1215 as a base for their preaching activities against the local heretics. It's a vast, brooding building, with some fading remnants of medieval paintings around the otherwise plain stone walls. The remains of St Thomas Aquinas are kept below the altar. Also worth a visit is Toulouse's cathedral, the basilique de St Sernin, which is the largest Romanesque church in France. Of most interest is the ambulatory, where you can follow in the footsteps of the medieval pilgrims around the disturbingly titled 'Holy Bodies Circuit', a collection of elaborately housed saintly relics.

Finally, no tour of Languedoc's Cathar country is complete without a visit to the fairytale medieval city of Carcassonne, which was beseiged and captured by Simon de Montfort in 1209, during the Albigensian 'Crusade'. It was so heavily restored in the 19th century that it now resembles a Hollywood film set. Nevertheless, it's still impressive, if rather touristy, and you can try the locally brewed 'Cathar' beer, Trencavel, at one of the many brasseries in town.
Richard Watkins

Since Dea Birkett has chosen to take poor old Ryanair to task on this subject for two weeks on the run now, I am mystified as to why she feels her over-twos should be entitled to reduced airfares. Presumably they occupy entire adult seats when they fly, so why should their tickets be part-funded by their fellow passengers?

What does rather rile me, however, is her revelation that when I travel on British Airways or Britannia I am compelled to subsidise the family holidays of complete strangers. No doubt Ryanair's more equitable policy is one of the reasons that they are able to keep their fares so reasonable for the rest of us, who don't expect handouts when it comes to our optional leisure activities.
Julie Hindmarch

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