Desmond Balmer, Joanne O'Connor and Sarah Jacobs 

A year in the sunshine

Desmond Balmer, Joanne O'Connor and Sarah Jacobs offer a comprehensive guide to the essential Caribbean festivals
  
  


January
January is the month of saints in Puerto Rico . Most of the celebrations date back to colonial times, but the Festival of San Sebastian in the city of San Juan is a street party with a difference. The tradition only began last century to commemorate the old city, and now people flock from all over the island to join in the salsa and procession of 'cabezudos' - huge character masks which represent favourite policemen and mayors of the old town.

February
For five days before Ash Wednesday the streets of Port of Spain in Trinidad are taken over by one of the biggest and noisiest parties in the world. The Trinidad and Tobago Carnival (24-28 February 2001) is the original Caribbean carnival with costumed parades, calypso music, steel bands and dancing in the streets. The pre-Lenten Carnival is celebrated on islands throughout the Caribbean.

March
Irish visitors will be bemused but beguiled if they visit the community of Sauters on 17 March. The parish on the northern nape of Grenada is named after St Patrick, the Irish patron saint, thanks to the lasting influence of an Irish order of teacher priests. And St Patrick's Day is celebrated with as much enthusiasm as in Dublin, though the flavour is of rum and reggae. Like many an Irish town, Sauteurs has more bars than shops: their shutters are propped open by giant loudspeakers pumping out music loud enough to knock the unwary sideways. There are food stalls and displays of agricultural equipment and at the top of the main street the Royal Grenadian Police play with a rhythmic big band sound.

April
Antigua's Sailing Week (29 April - 5 May 2001) attracts enthusiasts from all over the world for fun regattas, serious racing and the obligatory rum punches and 'jump-ups' at the end of each day. Last year's event attracted over 250 boats. The preceding week's Classic Yacht Regatta (19-24 April 2001) is a chance to see large wooden sailing ships in action, including some impressive Tall Ships.

May
One of the foremost musical events in the Caribbean, the St Lucia Jazz Festival (4-13 May 2001) takes place against a spectacular natural backdrop. Patti LaBelle, Gladys Knight and Los Van Van headed the bill at last year's event, so expect some big names. Free events, fringe shows, food, arts and craft stalls all add to the entertainment. (www.stluciajazz.com)

June
June is the windiest month of the year in the Dominican Republic. This is good news for windsurf enthusiasts who are invited to join in the Caberete Race Week (18-24 June 2001) Events are held for all levels and abilities, including those who want to turn up and splash about in the waves. Aside from the windsurfing there will be beach parties, and merenge lessons.

July
Cuba has several carnivals but the biggest and brightest is the one held on 25 July in Santiago de Cuba. Spanish, African and French influences have all added to the melting pot of this three-day extravaganza to celebrate the end of the sugar harvest. Every neighbourhood brings its own band to the carnival, and equipped with trumpets, metal tyre rims and frying pans, they lead an enormous conga parade through the city streets. The vibe is so magnetic that some dancers leave their homes still wearing hair curlers and house slippers.

August
If you're up for five nights of dancing and rum, head for Jamaica's Reggae Sumfest held in the first week of August. Each evening is different, with international reggae, dance-hall ragga and singing events following a big beach party on the first night. You can even buy a back-stage pass to meet the stars, who often include major bands such as UB40.

September
It may be hurricane season but the residents of St Kitts still turn out in their hundreds to celebrate the island's National Independence Day on the 19 September. Festivities continue for a week and include parades, picnics, dances and cocktail receptions. The day itself boasts a big military parade as well as horseracing on sister island Nevis.

October
Pirates will sail into George Town's harbour on board a replica seventeenth-century Spanish galleon at the start of Cayman Islands Pirate's Week (24 October - 31 October). Underwater and land-based treasure hunts, street parties, music and lots of swashbuckling make up the week's festivities.

November
A day of military parades and national costume, 3 November marks the date in 1978 the British moved out of Dominica and left the country to govern itself. It's not the wild street party you might associate with Caribbean celebrations, but it is spectacular none the less. A highlight of the Independence Day Celebrations is the traditional dancing which is accompanied by the government's 'music lover's band'. Barbados follows with its Independence celebrations on 30 November.

December
Sean Connery's James Bond dodged bullets in a spectacular chase through a junkanoo procession in Dr No. This was a specially staged mid-summer event. The real thing, held in the Bahamas in the early hours of Boxing Day and again on New Year's Day, is too serious an affair to be manipulated by a film crew. This is the Bahamian carnival, a raw celebration of traditional culture with the working class 'Over the Hill' districts seeking to upstage each with their elaborate dress and exuberant displays, whistles blowing and goatskin drums beating and cowbells ringing. The late premier Sir Lynden Pindling used to take part, though you would have been hard-pressed to spot him underneath a huge straw hat.

 

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