Address: Temple Sowerby House, Temple Sowerby, nr Penrith, Eden Valley, Cumbria, CA10 1RZ.
Telephone: 017683 61578
Email: stay@temple-sowerby.com
Web address: www.temple-sowerby.com
First impressions? Something of a surprise: I arrived in Cumbria expecting grey stone and slate, and found myself outside an elegant, redbrick hotel that looked as if it had been plucked from the pages of a Jane Austen novel - an impression which the beautiful walled garden and manicured croquet lawn to the rear did nothing to dispel. It's not until you look up and see the mountains of the Lake District swelling across the horizon to the west of you and the Pennines to the east that you remember where you are. Inside, though, there's plenty of northern soul: the staff are chattier and more attentive than you'd find in the hotel's southern counterpart, and touches such as the cosy renaming of the double measures in our pre-prandial G&Ts as "friendly" certainly encouraged us to dawdle after dinner and enjoy their company again.
What are the rooms like? 13 bedrooms, individually styled. Ours was snug, with a big TV at the bottom of the bed and tea- and coffee-making facilities. Best thing was the morning view over the gardens to the hills in the distance.
The bed test: Clean and comfortable - I slept like a baby. Although that may have had something to do with the friendliness of the drinks.
The bathroom test: Compact, but perfectly adequate, with a good deep bath and classy Moulton Brown toiletries.
The lounge: There are two: one's light and bright and ideal for the morning coffee and papers crowd; the other, in what used to be the library, is the place to head for early evening drinks and quiet conversation. Complementary pre-dinner nibbles are served there, and the room is also home to the most comfortable armchair I've ever had the pleasure to sink into. It's the one to the right of the door, in case you're interested.
The restaurant: The food is definitely a highlight. The menu is flowery, with a generous scattering of medleys and timables and things that have been coated and tossed, but for once the food lives up to the language. A lot of the produce is local, including the meat and fish, and make sure you try the cheese platter. The wine list is pricey but worth it, and personally compiled by the owner, Paul, who's more than happy to discuss your choice with you or make a recommendation if you're having trouble deciding.
What is there to see within walking distance? The Eden Valley. The gardens and water mill at Acorn Bank, a National Trust property about 20 minutes' walk across fields from the hotel. Lots of cows and sheep.
What is there to see within driving distance? The Lake District and Hadrian's Wall, to name the larger features. Melmerby Village Bakery if you're feeling hungry and healthy - it's all organic, and damnably tasty - and the Cumberland Pencil Museum if you're feeling esoteric.
How much? A double room for a night with full English breakfast is £49.50 (£60 for a four-poster room), but if you're after real value, a short break for two consecutive nights or longer costs £69.50 per person per night, and includes dinner chosen from the a la carte menu.
Would you go back? Try and stop me.
