Jordan's wealth of romantic legends, concerning holy grails, lost cities and Lawrence of Arabia, should guarantee its position as a top destination for curious visitors. However, because of its situation at the centre of the Middle East, a region characterised by political and religious tension, the country has long remained a tourist backwater. Its relative isolation means that the friendliness of the locals is genuine, and tea invitations don't require you first to purchase a carpet.
The advent of civilisation in the area can be traced back to around 9000 BC, making it one of the oldest cultures in the world. Religion is predominantly Islam: Muslims are called to prayer five times a day by temple bells in the minarets of the many mosques that are scattered thoughout the towns.
The country is split into three areas: the fertile slopes of the Jordan Valley, abundant with cedar, olive and eucalyptus plantations; the East Bank plateau where most of the main towns can be found; and the East Bank desert, which stretches out into Syria, Iraq and Saudi Arabia. Near the Dead Sea in the south there is virtually no vegetation, only muddy banks and salt flats. The Gulf of Aqaba is famed for its spectacular marine life and the Shaumari Wildlife Reserve in the east is home to gazelles and oryx.
Jordan is home to two of the Middle East's most prized jewels. Petra is an ancient city carved into a cliff face. It was abandoned for over 1000 years and only rediscovered in 1812. In the 1980s it gained huge exposure when it featured as the location for the film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. The rugged desert of Wadi Rum is home to the landscape that captivated Lawrence of Arabia. Choose between a four-wheel-drive or camel to make your way around - either way, you'll have the opportunity to camp under the stars with a Bedouin family, stare contemplatively into the middle distance and imagine you're in the movies.
Language
Arabic is the official language. English is widely spoken in the cities. French, German, Italian and Spanish are also spoken.
Climate
Hot and dry summers with cold nights. The Jordan Valley, far below sea level, is warm during winter and extremely hot in summer. Rain falls between November and March, while the coldest weather conditions set in in December and January. Visit in spring or autumn to avoid the stifling heat of summer and the icy winds of winter.
Health
Vaccinations for hepatitis, typhoid, polio and tetanus and diphtheria are recommended, though not compulsory.
Food
Eating pork and drinking alcohol are forbidden under Islamic law, although these rules seem to be more relaxed in Jordan than in other Islamic countries. There are many eating establishments that only welcome men, although most of these will, if asked, show you to the 'family room' which is set aside for women. When Jordanians eat out, they tend to share group meals, typically a selection of mezzeh, or starters, followed by a selection of main meals. Khobz, an Arabic unleavened bread, is eaten with almost everything. The other favourites are felafel, deep-fried chickpea balls, shwarma, spit-cooked sliced lamb, and fuul, a paste of fava beans, garlic and lemon. Mensaf is a Bedouin speciality - a whole lamb, head included, on a bed of rice and pine nuts.
What to buy
Bargaining, particularly for souvenirs, is essential, but you are unlikely to get shopkeepers to stray far from their original price.
Events
December Ramadan: a month of fasting between sunrise and sunset to conform to the fourth pillar of Islam. December Eid al-Fitr: the feast celebrating the end of Ramadan when people pray together, visit friends, exchange presents and generally gorge themselves. February Eid al-Adah: the other big celebration of the year, signalling the time when Muslims should make the pilgrimage to Mecca. March 8 Islamic New Year. May 25 Independence Day.
Embassy and visa information
UK: Embassy of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan, 6 Upper Phillimore Gardens, London, W8 7HB. Tel: 020 7937 3685 or 09001 171 261 (recorded visa information; calls cost 60p per minute). Fax: 020 7937 8795 or 09001 171 261(automatic fax-back service for visa application forms). Email: azzar@dircon.co.uk Website: www.jordanembassyuk.gov.jo Opening hours: Mon-Fri 0930-1500, 0930-1100 (consulate enquiries), 1400-1500 (visa collection).
Jordan: British Embassy PO Box 87, Abdoun, Amman, Jordan Tel: (6) 592 3100. Fax: (6) 592 3759. Email: info@britain.org.jo Website: www.britain.org.jo
Visa requirements: All foreigners need a visa to enter Jordan. You can get one at the border or airport when you arrive, or from consulates in your country. Visas are valid for two weeks from entry, but can be easily extended for up to three months. Tourist, Transit and Business visas cost £11 (single) or £21 (multiple). It is advisable to keep your passport on you whenever you're near the Israeli border, as there are lots of military checkpoints.
Currency
£1 buys approx. 1.01Jordanian Dinar (JD)
Timezone
GMT +2 (GMT + 3 from April to September)
Getting there
Amman has an international airport, with flights from Beirut, Cairo, Damascus and further afield. The national airline is Royal Jordanian Airlines (RJ). British Mediterranean operates daily services from London to Amman: flight time is five hours.
There is a departure tax of JD10 from the airport. There are regular buses between Amman and Damascus (about seven hours), Baghdad (14 hours), Jeddah, Dammam and Riyadh (about 24 hours). There are also indirect buses to Jerusalem, and direct buses from Aqaba to Eilat. You can also catch service taxis from Jordan to Syria and Iraq, or a train from Amman to Damascus (Monday only). The departure tax is JD4 (free to the West Bank). A ferry/bus service runs from Aqaba to Cairo, or you can get a fast boat between Aqaba and Nuweiba in Sinai. The departure tax is JD6.
Related literature
Kingdom of the Film Stars: Journey Into Jordan, Annie Caulfield: Story of the author's relationship with a Bedouin man.
A History of the Arab Peoples, Albert Hourani: Describes the evolution of Muslim Arab societies.
Freya Stark in the Levant, Malise Ruthuen: A selection of photos from this remarkable British travel writer of the early 20th century.
Jordan - Walks, Treks, Climbs and Canyons, Di Taylor, Tony Howard
