Why go now?
Located just north of the Centrale train station, Bolognina neighbourhood is more than just a Little Bologna. It is a completely different world from the medieval maze of palaces, churches and towers that define the city’s “Centro Storico”, which is increasingly filled with crowds of tourists as Bologna joins the big league of Italian getaway destinations.
There is an immediate visual difference as narrow cobbled lanes give way to wide, tree-lined avenues, pastel-coloured low-rise apartment blocks, spacious parks and piazzas. Bolognina sprang up at the beginning of the 20th century, initially to house families of workers from the railway, then from nearby manufacturing industries.
Today, the quarter is home to a diverse multi-ethnic population and remains a stronghold for militant leftwing politics, with the local community committed to avoiding gentrification. Tourists are certainly made welcome, and it is a delight to feel part of genuine local life.
Where to eat and drink
Eating out here makes a refreshing change from the city centre. Of course there are still spots serving traditional freshly made tagliatelle al ragù such as the atmospheric old-school trattoria La Golosità di Nonna Aurora. But you can also sample Georgian cuisine at Pane Georgiana, a sharing plate of Ethiopian and Eritrean dishes at Ristorante Africano Adal, spicy Sichuan cooking at Ba Hot Pot, or handmade tortellini and tortelloni stuffed with halal meat at the innovative Brodellini.
For vegetarians, the perfect spot is Piazza Martino, a cantina and deli owned by a nearby farm in the Bolognesi Hills that practises a “first we grow, then we eat” philosophy, transforming their organic produce into delicious aubergine parmigiana, vegan pepperoni lasagne, and courgette and potato polpette (balls).
Bolognina’s prime foodie street is Via Luigi Serra, symbolised by the fiercely independent Trattoria di Via Serra. The restaurant’s three small, rustic salons are always packed and getting a reservation isn’t easy as they don’t take bookings through social platforms and rarely answer the phone or emails. Chef Tommaso Maio and co-owner Flavio Benassi used to have a restaurant up in the hills nearby, but 13 years ago decided to come to the city, choosing Bolognina rather than the city centre for their new venture. “Our aim then, and still today, is to offer the locals here an old-fashioned neighbourhood trattoria where they can still order a comforting bowl of tortellini in capon broth, lasagne and freshly baked crescenti biscuits,” they explain.
If there is no free table at the Trattoria, then the street offers plenty of options, from hearty plates of cold cuts and cheeses at the deli-diner La Vecchia Bottega, cocktails, spritz and craft beers at the hip Fermento bar, or local wines at La Petite Enoteca. To finish the evening, there is often live music at the bars in Piazza Lucio Dalla, named after Bologna’s local hero, an iconic Italian singer-songwriter.
Cultural experiences
Leave historic Bologna behind by walking from the central train station across the Matteotti bridge and you immediately come face to face with a striking Holocaust memorial, an austere, minimalist monument of two narrowly separated 10-metre high steel walls. Just opposite stands the massive Chiesa del Sacro Cuore di Gesù, dating back to 1912 when Bolognina was first being built. It is worth visiting just to marvel at the soaring 60-metre-high dome.
Hidden away in the backstreets in a former tram shed, La Memoria di Ustica Museum is a unique homage to a commercial flight between Bologna and Palermo that was mysteriously shot down in 1980 with no survivors. French artist Christian Boltanski has meticulously reconstructed the wreckage of the downed airliner and assembled the personal items belonging to the victims, creating an immense, intensely moving installation.
Checkpoint Charly is a thriving alternative art and artisan cooperative occupying a former lingerie warehouse. Workshops include ceramics, printmaking, photography, graphics and music, with a dozen cultural events presented each year. The DLF – Dopo Lavoro Ferroviario – is a sprawling park behind the station originally created in the 1920s for after-work activities for railway workers. This green lung has been saved from abandonment and now houses the laid-back all-day Kinotto Bar, the Vecchia Orsa DLF craft brewery and beer garden, a pizzeria, the Puccini concert arena and the Locomotiv Club, a live indie music venue.
Where to shop
Although this essentially residential neighbourhood may not be a shopping paradise, bargain hunters should plan to visit on the first Sunday of the month when the Piazza Lucio Dalla is transformed into a huge flea market. Over in the daily Mercato Albani, Ilario di Lorenzis has recently opened Intelligenza Artigianale, an atelier showcasing his funky hand-crafted bags, T-shirts and caps, while cycling fans should head for Bolognina Bike Shop, whose friendly owner, Dario Brunetto, repairs bikes and recycles vinyls, retro decor and collectible vintage cycling jerseys.
Don’t miss
Since opening in 1934, Mercato Albani has been the beating heart of Bolognina. Running down the middle of a shady tree-lined avenue, locals gather each morning for their daily shopping from bustling stalls selling Bologna’s speciality mortadella (pork salami) and prosciutto, fish, cheese and organic veggies. Then there is a complete change of personality from 5pm till around midnight when shuttered stands open up as lively cocktail and craft beer bars, the natural wine enoteca, Vineria Punk, plus casual diners serving pizza and pasta, vegan dishes and Greek cuisine. Giuseppe Agrello the owner of Bollore, a cool vermouth bar, explains that “when we were invited to open in the mercato, we insisted that during the day it should stay as it is and not become just another tourist food court. So we only begin in the evening and also organise concerts, art exhibitions and cultural events for the community.”
Where to stay
Hotel Il Guercino is a delightfully quirky, family-owned hotel, extravagantly decorated with a mix of baroque and Asian influences, with a spa featuring sauna, hot tub and steam bath. Doubles from €150.
This trip was provided by Bologna Welcome and Emilia Romagna Turismo
