For its first 400 years, Malmö was the second most important city in Denmark after Copenhagen. But in 1658, it was handed over to the Swedes along with a massive part of what is now southern Sweden.
The old city around Stortorget is a mix of Gothic and Dutch Renaissance architecture, with delightful parks and waterways providing a relaxing counterpoint to the bustle. For shopping, head down Södergatan where a collection of lively cafés spread themselves over the pedestrianised street during the summer.
Cutting through the Øresund Park brings you to a stretch of decent beach called the Golden Coast. The city's busy nightlife is focused on Lilla Torg. All the bars here are worth a look - Moosehead caters to a younger set while a maturer crowd frequents Mellow Yellow.
• 13.25kr = £1. Transport from Copenhagen Airport: train (from July 2) 20mins, 60kr. Tourist office: inside Central Station, tel: 040/30 01 50, www.tourism.malmoe.com
Best places to visit
Malmöhus
Malmöhusvagen
This 15th-century castle is now a museum with a series of furnished interiors from Renaissance to art nouveau. The grounds provide lovely spots for picnics and walks.
Open daily, June-Aug 10am-4pm, Sept-May noon-4pm. Admission: 40kr.
St Petri Church
Göran Olsgatan
This14th-century church is splendidly Gothic outside and pleasantly airy inside. Most of the murals were destroyed in the Reformation, but a side chapel has a preserved vaulted ceiling depicting New Testament figures.
Open: Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10am-6pm; free.
Where to stay
Savoy
Norra Vallgatan
With special summer deals, this wonderfully stylish hotel is excellently positioned opposite the main station. Also has an elegant restaurant.
Cost per night: 800-1,700kr.
Tel: 94, 040/70 230.
Food
Radhus Källaven
Stortorget
Situated in the basement of the 16th-century city hall serving great traditional and modern Scandinavian food.
Spot Restaurant
Stor Nygatan 33
Italian food with all ingredients specially imported.
Closed Sundays.
• Andrew Spooner is the co-author of The Mini-Rough Guide to Copenhagen to be published next February
