We're 1,300m up, and our small group of skiers has been on the move for three hours, steadily climbing the low rounded hills that surround the southern Norwegian skiing resort of Kvit vatn.
Here, just above the tree-line, we're rewarded with a sweeping panorama: to the north lies the rolling plateau of the Hardangervidda stretching out to the skyline, while to the south rising above the trees is the distinctive hump-back outline of Gausta which at 1,883m is the region's highest mountain.
A few steps from where we've stopped, I noticed a near feather-perfect imprint in the snow made by either a ptarmigan or a black grouse and, judging by its freshness, the bird flew off just as we emerged from the pines.
In many ways, this is a classic cross-country skiing moment: unlike downhill, winter sport's fast-food activity, cross-country gives you the time to experience not only the vastness of the views but also the chance to take in the wildlife.
Despite being one of the leading cross-country skiing centres in Norway, on first impressions Kvit vatn appears to be tiny. This, however, may have something to do with the fact that with no building higher than a pine tree, most of the resort nestles unobtrusively among the trees and series of low hillocks.
What is obvious though is the virtual absence of any traffic or bustle, which results in a silence and calm that remains unbroken for the whole week of my stay.
On my first morning, after a potentially overwhelming smorgasbord breakfast at my temporary residence, Fjellstoge Lodge, there was just time to pick up the equipment before heading to the gentle nursery slopes where my group are to have our first lessons. The band of a dozen beginners was a mixed bunch, in terms of both age and experience.
The first thing we learned was that the key to a cross-country skier's ability lies in the boots. As snug and comfy as your favourite slippers, cross-country boots are attached to the ski only at the front, crucially leaving the heel free at the back.
The first two mornings were then spent being taught by Katherine, our British instructor, who was soon helping us gain the confidence we needed. We began by skiing in tracks, or "tramlines", that are cut by machines into the snow and into which your skis snugly fit. The length of these tracks can vary from a few kilometres in a valley bottom to a vast network, sometimes floodlit, through forests and over hills.
Come lunchtime, we'd nip back to the lodge to eat a packed lunch washed down with mugs of hot chocolate. In the afternoons, our newly acquired skills were put to the test when we were led out by Katherine for a two-hour off-track tour around the frozen Lake Kvit vatn at the back of the lodge.
Each day we'd be out skiing for six hours both on and off track, and by the late afternoon when the sun was starting to send the temperature tumbling, I was always looking forward to getting back to base and being able to dive into the sauna. Come the evening, it took an effort of Olympic proportions just to prise myself from the fireside sofa and stumble into bed where I immediately fell into a deep sleep.
Getting started
If you've never been cross-country skiing before you're probably better off signing up with one of the handful of the UK's specialist operators that organise holidays throughout the Alps and Scandinavia.
All the operators place an emphasis on holidays based in either quiet, Alpine villages or in low-key resorts.
My trip was booked through Waymark Holidays (01753 516477, brochure@waymarkholidays.co.uk). Seven nights in mid-February costs £655 with flights from Heathrow.
This season, Inntravel (01653 629010, www.inntravel.co.uk) is organising special Try It Out Weeks specifically designed for cross-country novices. Included in the price are two-hour lessons for the first three days and the hire of equipment for the week. These introductory weeks are available at nine resorts throughout the Alps and in Norway. A Try It Out Week in Kandersteg in Switzerland costs £599 flying from London City airport and includes seven nights' half board.
If you're not sure cross-country is for you but would like to give it a go, Headwater Holidays (01606 813333, www.headwater-holidays.co.uk) recommends Autrans in the western French Alps. Because of the wide range of winter activities available locally, if you don't take to cross-country there are downhill runs close by, plus you can always get a winter buzz from snow-shoeing, dog-sleigh rides and skating. Seven nights in Autrans in mid-February costs £788 flying from Gatwick.
Another good cross-country centre is S-Chanf in Switzerland, set in the upper Engadine valley. The flat valley floor offers over 150km of tracks with the added benefit that if you flag you can use the narrow-gauge train to get your back to base the easy way. Waymark offers seven nights in S-Chanf in early February for £575 half-board flying from Heathrow.
More information
The English Ski Council operates a dozen local groups across England. To find out where your nearest club is, contact Paddy Field, the Director of Nordic Skiing 01252 626339; paddyfield@ski-nordic.co.uk, or visit www.escnordic.org.uk. In Scotland, contact Snow Sport Scotland (01529 497007 www.snsc.demon.co.uk
