The DJ is whipping almost 1,000 bare-chested men into a frenzy on the dancefloor. For once, however, a gay rave is in danger of being upstaged by its venue - we're in the Roundhouse, a restaurant complex perched at 6,000ft amid the snowy peaks and a 20-minute gondola ride above the Canadian resort of Whistler. When the music and mass of male flesh gets too hot, the setting provides the most dramatic chill-out space: a terrace with a sweeping panorama of moonlit, snow-blasted mountains and an ocean of pure, icy alpine air.
The Mountain Top Tea Dance is generally acknowledged as being the highlight of the lavish aprés-ski events at Gay Ski Week, an event started in 1992 by Vancouver-based entrepreneur Brent Benaschak, as a means of attracting guests at his B&B on New York's Fire Island to his other B&B in Whistler, 70 miles north of Vancouver.
From an initial 200 participants at the first event, the week has snowballed, and this year more than 3,000 gay men and women flew in from all over the world for a week of top-class skiing, boarding and partying. "It's a crazy, hectic festival chock full of different social events," says Benaschak. "People just have a great time, gay and straight."
Whistler Gay Ski Week is one of seven gay ski and snowboarding events being held this year, with all but one taking place in North America. Europe's own gay ski week, which is organised by London-based Alternative Holidays, started last Sunday and climaxes this weekend in the Trois Vallées in the French Alps. Compared with happenings on the other side of the pond, though, the event is a more modest affair.
The biggest - though not necessarily the best - gay ski week is held every year in Aspen. Now in its 25th year, it attracts more than 5,000 gay men and women and, in addition to extravagant entertainment, the week is a major fund-raising opportunity for America's gay political lobby groups.
For quality of skiing combined with après-ski entertainment, though, Whistler wins hands down. "I've been to Aspen twice before and the skiing there just doesn't compare," says Steve from Seattle. "Also, believe me, the parties in Whistler are a lot wilder."
Given Whistler's après-ski reputation, however, the majority of the week's visitors are clear about their priorities. "I've come to Whistler for the skiing first and gay events and parties second," says Todd from Dallas.
Mark from Manchester, one of the few Brits at the event, is planning to return next year: "I've skied with my gay mates before in straight ski resorts in France, but the week here is really special. There's an incredible buzz about the place and the clubbing is terrific."
Despite the fact that the Whistler tourist authorities are upfront about listing the week in their brochures, for some people the event comes as something of a shock. Fortunately, fossilised views are an exception with a warm welcome being the norm. Of course, the fact that the week pours millions of pink Canadian dollars into the local coffers is a suitably sweet financial incentive that would melt even the iciest of homophobic hearts. And contrary to the misinformed stereotype, there are few public displays of campery on the pistes - not even a feather boa on the blue runs.
Admittedly, things did revert a little more to type with the Beach Party held earlier in the week. Hardly surprising when 1,000 gay men dressed as skimpily as British Columbia law allows take over a swimming pool for the night and turn it into a water-themed nightclub.
Things were likely to get even hotter at the Snow Ball, the final event of the week, which has now become part of the North American Circuit Party network and sees men flying in from all over North America for the evening.
Back in the Roundhouse a huge roar goes up when it is announced that the gondola, the only way back down the mountain, is out of order. "My God!" cries Steve from Seattle. "We're marooned up here with caseloads of alcohol and hundreds of hot and horny men!"
*Down in the valley below, the lights of Whistler sparkle and fresh flurries of snow start to fall from the darkening skies. Normal service will be resumed all too soon, but for a week at least, this little piece of North America really does become a winter fairyland.
Way to go
Whistler Gay Ski Week: Based on four people sharing a condo, the week costs £600 and includes lift passes. All flights, transfers, meals, ski lessons and entertainment are extra. Further information from www.outontheslopes.com
Aspen Gay Ski Week: Based on four people sharing an apartment, the week, including lift passes, would cost around £750. Flights, meals and entertainment are extra. Further information from: www.gayskiweek.com
European Gay Ski Week: Based on three people sharing an apartment, the week costs £519, which includes full board, ski-pass and all day lessons plus evening entertainment. Flights and transfers extra. Further information from: www.alternativeholidays.com
