The centre of this beautifully preserved medieval city is a maze of meandering canals criss-crossed by marble and wrought-iron bridges, renaissance palaces decorated with pastel-coloured frescoes, churches and monasteries displaying paintings by the likes of Titian. And staring down on you from all over the city are carved images of the unmistakable symbol of the Most Serene Republic of Venice, the proud Lion of St Mark.
But rub your eyes, because this is not La Serenissima at all, but the surprising city of Treviso. Only a 20-minute train journey from Venice, Treviso is all but undiscovered by the hordes of tourists who flood Venice each day. Travellers who take the trouble to come here will be pleasantly rewarded by discovering an unspoilt, friendly city, where the pace of life is relaxed and laid back, while the cost of living is a good deal cheaper than in nearby Venice.
Treviso is a city that stands easily with one foot in the sixteenth century and one in the twenty-first. It is the heart of north-east Italy's booming economy and is often referred to as 'Benettonville', because it is here that Luciano Benetton has based his vast fashion empire. So alongside the town's ancient palaces and monuments, you'll discover cutting-edge Italian design stores displaying the latest fashions. You may end up wandering into a traditional osteria , where an animated crowd of locals sit round an old oak table, noisily playing scopa , an incomprehensible card game. Order an ombreta , a simple but excellent glass of house wine produced in the vineyards that cover the hills surrounding Treviso. Alternatively, you could discover the latest hip bar, where the decor is minimalist, the drinks are smart cocktails and the trendy clientele zoom up in BMWs and Alfa Romeos, parading the latest creations by Versace or Gucci.
Treviso is encircled by a fortified, 500-year-old red brick wall, built by the Venetians when this was one of the most important outposts of their empire. The grassy promenade which runs along the top of the wall gives splendid views over this small city. Although Treviso became part of the Venetian Republic in 1389, it was a well-established trade and cultural centre from early Roman times, long before settlers had sailed across the lagoon to found Venice. Many of Treviso's finest buildings date back to the 1200s, yet there is a surprise hidden behind the facade of grand landmarks like the Piazza dei Signori: much of the city was destroyed by bombing raids at the end of World War II. But everything has been so painstakingly, so perfectly rebuilt, that even an expert wouldn't notice.
It doesn't take long to realise that this is not the kind of city where you'll see trattorias advertising a menu turistico , the usual recipe for lousy food at rip-off prices.
Eating out is one of the greatest pleasures of a visit here. You can sample famous local dishes like baccala mantecato , creamy stockfish on grilled polenta, and taste little-known wines such as a hearty raboso from the Piave valley - Ernest Hemingway's favourite drink - or a verduzzo dorato , a luscious, golden-coloured dessert wine. The best part comes when the bill arrives, as a full meal never adds up to much more than £10. In fact, prices for pretty much everything - eating, drinking and accommodation - are roughly half of what visitors pay in nearby Venice.
So, jump on that train from Venice for a day trip or, even better, if you fly in to Treviso's airport, as some Venice flights do, book a room for the night and get a real feeling for one of the most charming cities in the Veneto.
If you only do five things...
1 Forget the Old Masters in the stuffy town museum and instead visit the Casa dei Carraresi (Via Palestra 33), a renovated palazzo that hosts contemporary art shows, from the Impressionists to avant-garde painters.
2 In the same spirit, give the huge cathedral a miss, and head for the San Nicolo church (Via San Nicolo), whose tranquil seminary is decorated with a splendid series of frescoes painted in 1352 by Tomaso da Modena, a contemporary of Giotto.
3 Have lunch in Treviso's most unique restaurant, Al Cavallino (Via Bordo Cavour, 52, tel 0422 412801), set right inside a grandiose sixteenth-century gatehouse, and sit out on the terrazzo on top of the high city walls enjoying local specialities such as tagliatelle pasta cooked with a duck ragout, wild boar stew, and white asparagus served alla bassanese with chopped boiled eggsand olive oil.
4 Just before sunset, take a romantic stroll along the medieval arches that line the pretty Buranelli canal, passing by weeping willow trees and waterside mansions decorated with flowers.
5 Don't miss out on a chilled glass of sparkling Prosecco, the Veneto version of champagne, and a plate of freshly sliced cured ham at Dai Naneti (Vicolo Broli 2), a traditional osteria whose lively barmen, Beppe and Fabio, immediately make everyone feel at home.
Don't even think about...
• Drinking the local cocktail, a spritz al bitter, a lethal mix of Campari, white wine and soda water. One is pleasant, after two you're on the way to being merry, and don't even think about a third.
• Trying to find the Fontana delle Tette, a rather tacky copy of a sculpture that once spurted red and white wine from the unfortunate lady's breasts.
• Tasting torbolino, a cloudy wine that is still fermenting, which bars serve in September after the grape harvest. It tastes sweet and delicious, but will probably send you rushing to the loo later on.
Objects of desire
• Treviso's prime shopping street is the Calmaggiore, a vaulted medieval arcade lined with boutiques displaying every Italian designer label. For exquisite shoes, stop off at Cappalletto (Piazza dei Signori 10), while A.D. (Via Bordone 20) is designer heaven for anyone interested in the latest Italian interiors.
• Benetton junkies can enjoy themselves in the brand-new Benetton Mega Store (Piazza Indipendenza 5), but it's worth knowing that in the huge Saturday morning market by the Porta San Tomaso, you'll find stalls selling seconds direct from the factory at throwaway prices.
• There are some great artisan ateliers hidden in Treviso's backstreets and it's worth tracking down the exquisite glass vases and sculptures of Sandro Barbieri (Via sant'Agata 3), delicate ceramics created by Umberto Visentin (Piazza Garibaldi 16) and sumptuous fabrics from the studio of Le Tessiture (Vicolo Carlo Alberto 12).
• To stock up on gastronomic treats like dried porcini mushrooms, truffle oil and a wonderful anchovy paste to make the local pasta dish bigoli in salsa , just head for the Bottega del Baccala (Via Pescheria 12). To find out about the region's outstanding wines , visit Treviso DOC (Via Municipio 1), a fascinating information centre owned by local winemakers, where you can also buy bottles to take home.
Behaving badly
Treviso may look like a sleepy provincial city at night, but that's because most tourists just don't know where the hot spots are.
Start the evening with an aperitivo at the Biffi Bar , whose sprawling terrace fills much of the grandiose Piazza dei Signori.
Then try out one of two new hip venues that have just opened: the cool, minimalist Madam (Via Risorgimento 10) or La Pausa (Via D'Annunzio 16), an experimental space that mixes art exhibitions, live bands and young local DJs. Most people end up at Sottoportico (Via Buranelli 28), where a couple of hundred people spill out of the narrow bar on to the bank of the Buranelli Canal. Drinks are cheap, with a gin and tonic setting you back £2, and there are no unfriendly bouncers. To carry on till the early hours, grab a cab for a five minute drive to the neighbourhood around Via Fonderia, just outside the city walls, where you'll find a bunch of late-night danceclubs like Sottosopra, Lingotto and Havana Club.
Where to eat
Fast and filling: Presided over by the genial owner, Signora Ettora, the Osteria Arman is a venerable neighbourhood bar that serves big portions of delicious casalinga pastas accompanied by chilled Prosecco wine made from the family's own vineyards. Expect to pay around £5 a head for a two-course meal with wine. Osteria Arman (Via Manzoni 27, tel: 0422 547747)
A safe bet: Hidden down a narrow backstreet, the romantic trattoria Toni del Spin has a beautiful wood-panelled dining room, and is the town's most famous spot for the speciality dish baccala mantecato. Two courses with wine will set you back about £10 a head. Toni del Spin (Via Inferiore 7, tel: 0422 543829).
Totally sinful: The Beccherie, which translates as the butcher's shop, is not only the oldest restaurant in town but also the smartest, and boasts a gastronomic reputation for traditional dishes from the Veneto countryside like a creamy risotto made from red radicchio leaves, roast guinea-hen with a rich pearada sauce, and ravioli stuffed with asparagus and smoked ricotta cheese. Prices from around £15 a head. Antico Ristorante Beccherie (Piazza Ancilotto 11, tel: 0422 540871)
What the tourist board doesn't say
• The most beautiful spot in town is undoubtedly the morning fish market, La Pescheria , set on a tiny island surrounded by canals. Unfortunately, the whole place is being renovated right now and is surrounded by bulldozers till at least November.
• Treviso's hidden secret is a bunch of wonderful osterie lost down narrow alleyways which tourists never usually discover. So for a real slice of local life, search out on the map the following: Osteria Ponte Dante (Piazza Garibaldi 6, tel 0422 591 897), Bar Muscoli's (Via Pescheria 25, tel 0422 583 390), Osteria Al Canevon (Piazza San Vito 13, tel 0422 540 208), and Osteria Dalla Elsa (Vicolo San Gregorio 14, tel 0422 582 451).
• This is the rugby-crazy capital of Italy, due to the lavish sponsorship of Signor Benetton, and you'll invariably get asked about the Six Nations Tournament. So just don't put down the poor Italian team too much.
Get out of town
Treviso is a great base for exploring northern Italy's beautiful Roman abbeys, walled medieval villages and picturesque vineyards producing a host of excellent local wines. Alternatively, a five-minute bus ride (catch the bus from the station at Lungossile Mattei, 29) will take you straight to the splendid Villa Barbaro at Maser, one of Palladio's masterpieces decorated with trompe l'oeil frescoes by Veronese.
Getting around
Treviso is a city to be discovered on foot. Everything worth seeing can be found within the confines of the ancient walls.
Room for a night
Budget: Albergo Campeol, 14 rooms from £46, Piazza Ancilotto 4, tel/fax: 0422 56601. Excellent value, newly renovated and right in the city centre. This is the best deal in town.
Mid-range: Albergo La Colonna, 7 rooms from £56, Via Campana 27, tel: 0422 544804, fax: 0422 419177. Tiny boutique inn set in an ancient palazzo that also houses a fine restaurant and well-stocked wine bar. Must book well in advance.
Luxury: Hotel Carlton, 81 rooms from £75, Largo Porta Altinia 15, tel: 0422 411661, fax: 0422 411620, email: info@hotelcarlton.it. Top hotel in Treviso, right by the train station, but frankly a better bet for businessmen on expense accounts rather than visiting tourists.
Getting there
To Treviso
Ryanair (00 353 1 609 7800) is the only airline to fly directly from the UK into Treviso with daily flights from Stansted. Fares cost from around £38.10 (incl tax).
A taxi from the airport to the city centre costs approximately £5. Bus number 61 from the airport costs about 60p and takes 20 minutes.
To Venice
British Airways (020 8759 5511) flies daily from Gatwick. Alitalia (0870 5448259) flies three times daily from Gatwick (and Heathrow via Milan/Rome). Go (0845 6054321) flies daily from Stansted.
There are three trains an hour from Venice, and the 30km journey takes around 20 minutes. The return fare is £2.50.
Italian State Tourist Board
1, Princes Street, London W1R 8AY. Tel: 020 7408 1254. Brochure line: 090 65 508 925
Italian Consulate
38 Eaton Place, London SW1. Tel: 020 7235 9371.
Tourist information Azienda di Promozione Turistica Treviso, Piazza Monte di Pieta 8, tel:(00 39) 0422 547632, fax: 0422 419092, email: tvapt@sevenonline.it
Information and brochures in English on Treviso and the surrounding countryside. If you call before to reserve, they also offer a free two-hour guided tour of the city at 10am each Saturday.
Further reading: For a full history of Treviso, the Tourism Office has an English edition of Treviso by Toni Basso, while at the Treviso DOC wine store there are several excellent books on local food and wine, especially recommended is: Dishes of Winter Flowers, cooking with raddiccio rosso di Treviso by Marco Valletta, (Terra Ferma,£14).
