I had been on skiing holidays as a young boy for nearly 10 years before I ever ventured out of what had become my dream world, the ski resort of Kitzbühel. My first skiing experience outside of familiar territory could not have been more different. It was the sometimes beautiful, but maybe more famously, windy and rugged Cairngorm. Scottish skiing was, not surprisingly, rather different. However, it did trigger my imagination to the fact that my chosen sport could be packaged in many different boxes. That first diversion was the beginning of my exploration of ski resorts around the world, which has continued for more than three decades.
5 for skiing
So which villages and mountains have subsequently captured my heart?
Chamonix-Argentière
Chamonix is the spiritual home of both mountaineers and skiers. Just an hour's drive from Geneva airport, turn the final corner and the most awesome valley suddenly reveals itself. It is quite simply breathtaking. The altitude of the peaks, the most seductive cathedral to worship the powder for any seasoned boarder or skier.
On the obligatory pilgrimage, I once inadvertently strayed away from the marked pistes, and yes my knuckles were, quite rightly, rapped for the indiscretion, but inadvertently I stumbled on to the Pas de Chèvres. Dropping between the rocks below Les Grands Montets, this remains the most revealing and rewarding single run I have ever enjoyed.
The town itself is a combination of debatable Victorian architecture and some ghastly concrete disasters, and is tossed around the valley floor like a flat mixed salad, but who cares, the mountains have quite simply the best terrain accessible by lifts. Just don't forget the mountain guide.
Erna Low (020-7584 2841, ernalow@easynet.co.uk) has luxurious self-catering chalet apartments with discounts on pre-booked ski passes. One week, departing Jan 5, at Pierrre et Vacances Residence Chamonix Studio, sleeping 2/3 people, costs £299 per apartment and includes one ferry crossing (car + up to five passengers).
Verbier
If one would measure the calibre of the mountains by the quality of the skiers, Verbier would have no equal. And when the waist-deep powder is the only resistance to gravity, then you must be taking your chances down the back of the 3,300m Mont Fort. This is a resort where you don't ski a run; you take on the mountain. It is like a wild rodeo ride on a tough horse. Although it has grown dramatically over the past 30 years, it still has not lost its roots. Not overrun with large hotels, this is a village where the priority is skiing. That does make for an early start to catch the virgin snow. Alternatively, slide off across the valley to Brusson, where there is usually more than enough powder snow for everyone.
The Ski Company (01451 843123, skicompany.co.uk) has large chalets, sumptuous food and fine wines with scheduled flights and bespoke transfers. Departing Jan, a chalet for 10 people costs £1,075pp inc flights and chauffeur-driven 4-wheel-drive all week.
St Martin de Belleville
Where is that, you might ask. It is a small village that gives direct access to the largest ski area, Les Trois Vallées, without all the tourists. To be able to choose between all the variety of terrain shared by Courchevel, Méribel, Les Menuires, and Val Thorens is really special. More cruising than bruising slopes; pleasure isn't just measured in the punishment at the end of the day. This is American-quality groomed skiing, except the servings are twice the size. Mont Du Vallon is a single peak, less than 3,000m high, that keeps on unraveling a never-ending piste. It's like smoking a thick Cuban cigar that never goes out.
Motours (01892 677777, motours.co.uk) has apartments, hotels and chalet accommodation with Channel crossings by ferry operators and Eurotunnel. Seven nights' half-board at a hotel next to the piste, inc chair lift for links to the three valleys, costs £400pp departing Jan. New Year week is £449 pp.
Val D'Isère/Tignes
The supermarket of the mountains. Has everything, if that's the way you like it. The terrain, the mountains, and, sadly, the people. The vast area down the Col Pers, above Le Fornet used to be a huge void of tranquillity. These days, you have to watch out for the moguls. But come at the very end of the season, and vintage spring skiing is the reward.
The rolling terrain above and around the Col de l'Iseran metamorphoses into a huge rollercoaster ride over the light dusting of granulated crystals formed in the chill of the night. The skis laying the trace of a trail, gliding over the smooth frozen surface. Only the very lightest and deepest powder can beat that.
If you have an insatiable appetite for consuming miles of challenging runs, then you will be a Val skier. If there is not much fresh snow about, then I am not a Val skier.
Ski Independence (0870 6001462, ski-independence.co.uk) has self-catering apartments for two to eight people, departing Jan 5 from £352, including Dover/ Calais ferry crossing (Eurotunnel £20 extra).
Red Mountain, Rossland, BC, Canada
We all dream, and heli-skiing in Alaska remains my ultimate destination, but who needs helicopters when you have two old second-hand chairlifts. That's all you need to get up to the top of Red Mountain, and Granite Mountain. After that, the trees are an infinite maze of mysterious trails. Compared with Chamonix, this is a molehill, but with fresh Rocky Mountain powder it is off the wall... and off the beaten track. Afterwards, it's "hamburger and six-pack" time shacked up in the Ram's Head Inn with a good book. And, if you are really unlucky, you might bump into someone you know.
Frontier Ski (020-8776 8709, frontier-travel.co.uk) has tailor-made holidays for independent travellers at package holiday prices; daily scheduled flights; good child discounts. One week for two in December costs from £875pp inc flights from Heathrow.
5 for après
In winter, the days are short and the nights long. So which places rate to keep the night's going strong?
Kitzbühel
Kitzbühel has the best variety of nightlife. From the suave Tenne, where the tea-dancing kicks off straight after skiing, to a crowded, boisterous, singalong Londoner Pub. The place the downhill racers let their hair down after the dreaded and terrifying Hahnenkamm downhill race. It is a traditional and memorable "happy-to-be-in-one-piece" celebration.
In the beautiful, medieval town centre you are spoilt for choice, with a large selection of bars, cafés and nightclubs.
Kick off with " tee mit rum " in Café Praxmair, famous for its tradition of Tyrolean dancing, then stroll across the street to the Goldener Grief, a cozy, panelled bar, for the more discerning aperitif, and finally blast off all the decadence on the Take 5 dance floor. Austrian hospitality at its best.
Esprit Ski (01252 618300, esprit-holidays.co.uk) is a family ski specialist with nurseries and exclusive children's ski classes. One week for two departing Jan 5 costs £449pp.
Val D'Isère
Where there's an abundance of Brits, there tends to be many bars. Val is no exception. The Moris pub, for many the first "tanking" station, is yet another pub full of visitors. The locals converge on what I have always known as the pizzeria, the sign out front actually says Perdrix Blanche. Arguably the best place to eat in town. The Olympique is another place where the real people stop for refreshments. Then down a pint in the Taverne d'Alsace, and you could even be mistaken for a local. In Dick's Tea Bar, there are no surprises. Predictable, but the high-altitude clears the head quickly in the morning.
Aspen
America doesn't have such a reputation for the aprés-ski, but I always used to look forward to taking part in the last World Cup races of the season in Aspen as it is a great party town. And, at the end of a long tough winter, there was a bit of catching up to do. Live bands at the bottom of the slopes at Snowmass, in the Cirque Cafe soon have you "rocking and rolling" in ski boots. It's a match for any of the tea-dancing haunts in Europe, and the music is a tad better. At an elevation of 8,000ft above sea level, though, it is quite a workout. A few miles up the road at Aspen Mountain is the more exclusive bar of Little Nell's, a great place to enter into some entertaining conversation. Follow up with a nightcap at the Jerome Hotel. There is certainly something rather special about Aspen, and it is great fun trying to find it.
Ski Safari (020-7740 1221, skisafari.com) has total coverage of Canada and US. A week, departing Jan 19, costs £1,015pp staying at The Sardy House - an elegant Victorian B&B that has excellent and friendly service, pool, spa, sauna and restaurant.
Courmayeur
No wonder the Italians build Ferraris. It is so logical when you take in the aprés-ski in Courmayeur. Style and class, buzzing not brutal. The Bar Roma is one of those treasured locations where you can return every night and somehow find it so very different each time. Should you need a change, there are many different little charming corners to down a few quality wines, like the Bar delle Guide and the Cadran Solaire. And that espresso in the morning solves all the problems of the generous measures that the Italians are happy to serve.
Mark Warner (08708 480482, markwarner.co.uk) offers a choice of well-appointed and positioned chalet-hotels; special lessons and ski weeks. One week, departing Jan 6 costs £485pp inc flights, accommodation and three meals a day.
Alpbach
A petite Austrian village oozing a very special charm. The "gemütlichkeit" is here in abundance. If you like small and beautiful, and friendships to be easily made, Alpbach has a certain unfathomable magic. It is very Tyrolean, but it warms the heart and puts a huge smile on your face. The traditional bars in the Post and the Berghof are where the glühwein starts flowing. For those with energy left in their legs, the dancing continues well into the early hours in the Weinstadt and the Birdy Pub.
Thomson Ski & Snowboarding (0870 606 1470,thomson-ski.co.uk) offers a wide range of accommodation. One week in the Haus Edelweiss, inc flights to Innsbruck, costs from £279pp, departing March 16.
Best for both
But is there one resort that combines the best of both worlds?
St Anton
My personal pick of the bunch, at the moment ( if they don't put up any more hideous buildings like the new Wellness Centre in St Christoph). Austrian hospitality combined with a great selection of mountains and bars make it tough to beat. The variety and the challenge of the skiing are a match for anywhere. Famous for the Valluga off-piste skiing, there are many a more fascinating routes down less obvious places such as the Riffel Scharte and Albona Grat. Quite easy to find the "steep and deep". What more can a skier ask for? Well, in winter the nights start early up at the original Krazy Kanguruh or the contemporary Mooserwirt. Then when it gets a bit chilly, the log fire in the Alte Post bar accompanied by the obligatory hot chocolate and Grand Marnier, quickly restore the body temperature. For those on a mission, there's Bar Cuba and Kartouche.
White Roc (020-7792 1188, whiteroc.co.uk) has two-to five-star luxury hotels; ski and snowboard weekends; departures any day of the week for any number of days. One week for two people, departing in the first two weeks ofJan, costs £978pp.
