The Good Hotel Guide specialises in small, personally run hotels of character, and the Continent is rich in such places. Ever since our first edition, 25 years ago, which contained 300 hotels, Continental hotels have outnumbered British hotels in the Guide, a clear indication of our readers' preferences. In 1978, 55 of the entries were French, 43 Italian.
The Guide is now published in two volumes, one covering Great Britain and Ireland, the other Continental Europe, with a combined total of 1,600 hotels. One thousand are on the Continent with 18 countries represented. France remains the favourite with 400 hotels. Italy still comes second with 131.
Correspondents regularly write to tell us of the good value, delicious food and child-friendliness they find on the Continent. Since no hotel pays for its entry, and the Guide takes no hospitality or advertising, we can, unlike many others, tell it as it is.
Romantic hotels
With its castles, monasteries, mountains and lakes, the Continent is full of romantic hotels, some grand and expensive, others quite modest.
Hotel Burg Bernstein, Austria
Run by descendants of Count Lázlo Almásy, of The English Patient fame: massive fortress amid wooded hills near Hungarian border. Homely feel despite stuccoed ceilings, suits of armour, family heirlooms; heating by antique wood-burning stoves. No-choice dinner in splendid candlelit Rittersaal. Park, swimming pool. Ten bedrooms.
· Schlossweg 1, Bernstein, 7434 Burgenland, Austria (tel: 00 43 3354 6382, culture.privateweb.at/bernstein). B&B double €130-262. Dinner €33.
Steensgaard Herregårdspension, Denmark
A 14th-century brick and half-timbered moated manor house, in large park (with lake and reserve for deer and wild boar), on island of Funen (Fyn). Grand and beautiful public rooms, good food in candlelit dining room. Eighteen bedrooms.
· Steensgaard 4, Millinge 5642 Funen Island, Denmark (tel: 00 45 62 61 94 90, herregaardspension.dk). B&B double 990-1,550 Dkr. Set dinner 370-540 Dkr.
Château du Clair de Lune, France
Just south of Biarritz in enchanting parkland with views of the Pyrenees: early 20th-century house of character. Eighteen bedrooms - some, in "hunting lodge", have terrace for outdoor breakfast. Michelin-starred restaurant in Swiss château on estate.
· 48 avenue Alan Seeger, Biarritz, 64200 Pyrénées-Atlantiques, France (tel: 00 33 5 59 41 53 20, chateauduclairdelune.com). B&B from €78 per person. Set meal €33-53.
Château de Nieuil, France
Like a fairy-tale castle: moated hunting lodge of François I, now luxurious hotel. Fine antiques and paintings, stately marble stairway. Michelin-starred restaurant. Park: lovely gardens, swimming pool, tennis, lake. Fourteen bedrooms.
· Nieuil 16270 Charente, France (tel: 00 33 5 45 71 36 38, relaischateaux.com/nieuil). D,B&B €123-173 per person.
Moulin de la Gorce, France
Elegant conversion of 16th-century mill house, by huge pond with ducks and a stream, in wooded Limousin countryside. Michelin-starred restaurant. Ten bedrooms with antiques, old beams; some reached by twisty stairs.
· La Roche-L'abeille 87800 Haute-Vienne, France (tel: 00 33 5 55 00 70 66, relaischateaux.com/moulingorce). D,B&B €119-131 per person.
Luna Convento, Italy
Medieval convent with beautiful cloister, above sea and road. Best bedrooms are spacious with vaulted ceilings, tiled floors, great views. Good buffet breakfast; local dishes in dining room or restaurant in old Saracen fortress. Swimming pool carved into rocks below. Forty bedrooms.
· Via Pantaleone Comite 33, Amalfi, 84011 Salerno, Italy (00 39 089-871002, lunahotel.it). B&B double €181-465. Set meal €40.
Grand Hotel Timeo, Sicily
With one of the great views of the world (Etna, and the bay of Naxos far below, across its lovely garden): luxury hotel in pedestrianised area, by Greek Theatre. Huge terrace; beautiful public rooms; magnificent buffet breakfast; good Sicilian cuisine. Fifty-six bedrooms.
· Via Teatro Greco 59, Taormina 98039 Messina, Sicily (tel: 00 39 0942 23801, framon-hotels.com). B&B double €284-930. Set meal €52.
Kaatje bij de Sluis, The Netherlands
Charming restaurant-with-rooms (two Michelin stars) in beautiful little town with horseshoe-shaped harbour. Terrace for alfresco meals. Lavish breakfast. Eight bedrooms in large white building across bridge.
· Brouwerstraat 20, Blokzijl Overijssel, 8356 DV, The Netherlands (tel: 00 31 527 29 18 33, kaatje.nl). B&B double €218. Set meal €45-75.
Dalen Hotel, Norway
Historic monument, in fin de siècle dragon style, by lake in quiet village in Telemark, 230km south-west of Oslo. Stunning entrance hall with stained-glass ceiling and gallery; carved wooden dragon heads; splendidly old-fashioned decor. Good, simple no-choice dinner. Thirty-eight bedrooms.
· Postboks 123 Dalen, 3880 Norway (00 47 35 07 70 00, dalenhotel.no). D,B&B 825-1,125 Nkr per person.
Castillo el Collado, Spain
Late 19th-century stone folly villa in pretty public park in medieval ramparted hill town amid Rioja vineyards. Exuberantly decorated by poet owner Javier Acillona. Eight bedrooms, all different, with names such as Love And Madness and The Nightingale. Local dishes in restaurant and cellar bar.
· Paseo El Collado 1, Laguardia 01300 Alava, Spain (tel: 00 34 941 12 12 00, interhoteles.com/spain/es/hoteles/7306). B&B double €107-119. Set meal €21.
City hotels
Weekend city breaks are becoming increasingly popular. Here are 10 hotels in some major European cities.
Altstadhotel Wolf-Dietrich, Salzburg
On edge of Altstadt, friendly hotel, quiet at night. Twenty-five attractive, traditional bedrooms; many overlook St Sebastian's church and cloister. Very good organic restaurant; courtyard, pavement cafe; basement swimming pool. Garage.
· Wolf-Dietrich-Strasse 7, 5020 Salzburg, Austria (tel: 00 43 662 871275). B&B double €106-185. D,B&B €18 added per person.
De Witte Lelie, Antwerp
Discreet, elegant conversion of 17th-century town houses near cathedral; light, calm and quiet (much white). Informal layout: entrance hall with piano; striking floodlit patio; spacious public rooms; Extensive breakfast. Garage. Ten bedrooms.
· Keizerstraat 16-18, 2000 Antwerp, Belgium (00 32 3 226 19 66, dewittelelie.be). B&B double €225-400.
Le Dixseptième, Brussels
Smart little B&B hotel between Grand Place and central station. Old-world feel: beautiful parlour, carved wooden staircase, pretty breakfast room; courtyard. Twenty-four elegant bedrooms, traditional or modern. Good buffet breakfast.
· Rue de la Madeleine 25, 1000 Brussels, Belgium (tel: 00 32 2 502 57 44, ledixseptieme.be). B&B double €168-417.
Hotel Maximilian, Prague
Central yet quiet, 1904 town house, well managed, peaceful, comfortable, in art deco style. Seventy-two bedrooms. Good breakfast. Lounge with tea/coffee-making facilities. Chauffeur-driven car for trips. Underground car park.
· Haötalsk 14, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic (tel: 00 420 2 21 80 61 11, goldentulip.com). B&B double 225-265 koruny.
Art'otel Ermelerhaus, Berlin
Beautiful modern hotel in historic Berlin-Mitte. Calmly elegant: gentle colours, original paintings. Helpful, young staff. Extensive buffet breakfast in glass-roofed atrium; rococo restaurant in patrician building adjacent; lively basement pub. Ninety-nine bedrooms. Garage, free parking.
· , Wallstrasse 70 73, 10179 Berlin, Germany (tel: 00 49 30 24 06 20, artotel.de). B&B double €144-197. A la carte meal €22-42.
Loggiato dei Serviti, Florence
Former monastery, gracefully restored in understated style. In pedestrian zone, in one of Florence's loveliest squares. Twenty-nine bedrooms, best ones with views of duomo. Adequate breakfasts, courteous staff.
· Piazza SS Annunziata 3, 50122 Florence, Italy (tel: 0039 055 289592, loggiato deiservitihotel.it). B&B double €202-414.
Hotel De Filosoof, Amsterdam
Quirky B&B hotel dedicated to philosophy, in quiet area near Vondelpark. Friendly, efficient, good value. Attractive public rooms; substantial breakfast; garden. Twenty-seven bedrooms, each dedicated to a philosopher.
· Anna van den Vondelstraat 6, 1054 GZ Amsterdam, The Netherlands (tel: 00 31 20 683 30 13, hotelfilosoof.nl). B&B double €116-129.
Lapa Palace, Lisbon
In exclusive residential district: large, opulent hotel (lots of marble). Wide views over river Tagus; garden: terraces, waterfall, large swimming pool. Health centre (indoor pool). Elegant Venetian restaurant. One hundred and nine bedrooms, many with balcony. Garage.
· Rua do Pau de Bandeira 4, 1249-021 Lisbon, Portugal (tel: 00 351 21 94 94 94, orient-expresshotels.com). B&B double €314-1,038. Set meal €32.
Casa No 7, Seville
Delightful little town house hotel in centre of old Seville. Six bedrooms off inner balconies leading from large covered interior courtyard; roof terrace; honesty bar. Breakfast served by white-gloved butler.
· Calle Virgenes 7, Seville 41004, Spain (tel: 00 34 95 422 15 81, casanumero7.com). B&B single/double €175-275.
Widder Hotel, Zurich
Sensitive conversion (stainless-steel and glass lifts, abstract paintings, wooden beams) of medieval houses in quiet street in Altstadt. Good restaurant. Breakfast room has roof that opens in summer. Forty-nine bedrooms.
· Rennweg 7, 8001 Zurich, Switzerland (tel: 00 41 1-224 25 26, widderhotel.ch). B&B double from SFr590. Set dinner SFr88.
Family-friendly hotels
Most hotels on the Continent welcome children. In France, many of the smartest offer an enticing menu d'enfant for the infant gourmet. This is in stark contrast with the hotels in the British volume of the Guide, a third of which have age restrictions of some kind.
Hotel Walkner, Austria
Hilda Haberl's friendly, modern chalet, 15 minutes' drive from Salzburg. Large grounds, with swimming pool, playground, on Obertrumer Lake. Restaurant, terrace cafe; much use of organic produce. Twenty-two bedrooms.
· Eisenharting 4, Seeham, 5164 Salzburger Land, Austria (tel: 00 43 6217 5550, hotel-walkner.at). B&B €27-51 per person. D,B&B €40-64.
Auberge du Camp Romain, France
Inexpensive holiday hotel on hillside between vineyards and woodlands. Large grounds: sun terraces, tennis, gym; indoor and outdoor swimming pools. Good food (Michelin Bib Gourmand). Forty-one bedrooms.
· Chassey-le-Camp 71150 Saône-et-Loire, France (tel: 00 33 3.85.87.09.91, perso.wanadoo.fr/camp.romain). D,B&B €52-61 per person.
Auberge sur la Montagne, France
British-owned small Alpine hotel in hamlet near Val d'Isère. Lots of character, sensational views, relaxed style, good local cooking. Family suites, games, sledges. Seven bedrooms.
· La Thuile Ste-Foy-Tarentaise 73640 Savoie, France (tel: 00 33 4 79 06 95 83, auberge-montagne.co.uk). D,B&B €45-130 per person.
Hotel Eden Gigli, Italy
Cheerful white holiday hotel, in large park with three sea-water swimming pools, tennis, children's playground, small "zoo" (goats, rabbits and horses). On hillside overlooking sea and private beach. Traditional Italian cooking. Thirty-six bedrooms.
· Viale Morelli 11, Numana, 60026 Ancona, Italy (tel: 00 39 071 9330652). B&B: double €93-104. Set meal €21.
Albergo Borgo Pretale, Italy
Medieval hamlet in hills near Siena now luxurious hotel with large grounds: big swimming pool (summer buffet lunch), tennis, archery, putting, bowls; gym. Good Tuscan food. Thirty-five bedrooms in cottages or central tower.
· Localité Pretale, Sovicille 53018 Siena, Italy (tel: 00 39 0577 345401, emmeti.it/borgopretale). D,B&B double €290.
Quinta do Barranco da Estrada, Portugal
Frank and Lulu McClintock's informally run country house in remote Alentejo setting, in fragrant garden above huge lake. Family atmosphere, numerous pets, no-choice communal meals. Eight bedrooms.
· Santa Clara-a-Velha 7665-880 Beja, Portugal (tel: 00 351 283 93 30 65, paradise-in-portugal.com). B&B double €75-250. Set dinner €22.50.
Hotel El Habana, Spain
Small new country hotel amid beautiful scenery of northern Spain. Library, games room; babysitting. Large grounds: swimming pool, archery, volley-ball, bicycles. Ten bedrooms.
· La Pereda 33509 Asturias, Spain (tel: 00 34 98-540 25 26). B&B double from €79. Set meal €12.
Lukanc Pension, Slovenia
Lukanc family's amazingly cheap guest house on working farm amid splendid scenery in hamlet 2km from Bled. Bar with terrace. Huge breakfasts and dinners. Seventeen bedrooms, many spacious, with Alpine views.
· Selo pri Bledu 27, 4260 Gorenjska, Bled, Slovenia (tel: 00 386 4 57 41 702). B&B 17Sit per person. D,B&B 22Sit.
Hotel Restaurant Ermitage, Switzerland
Bieri family's family-friendly hotel in Alpine resort near Oeschinensee. Garden, children's playground. Twelve bedrooms, some with kitchenette.
· Kandersteg 3718 Bern, Switzerland (tel: 00 41 33 675 80 20, ermitage-kandersteg.ch). B&B SFr75-88 per person; D,B&B SFr100-113.
Hotel Hornberg, Switzerland
Family-run chalet hotel below the Hornberg, with views towards Gstaad. Children's playroom, indoor and outdoor swimming pools; large garden. Imaginative, plentiful food. Thirty-five bedrooms.
· Saanenmöser 3777 Bern, Switzerland (tel: 00 41 33 748 66 88, hotel-hornberg.ch). D,B&B SFr175-210 per person.
Seaside hotels
From the Atlantic to the Baltic, the Continent has many attractive seaside hotels ranging from the luxurious to the modest.
Villa Dubrovnik, Croatia
Terraced on a cliff on the southern side of Dubrovnik: striking modern building. Lovely views, swimming off rocks. Adequate, inexpensive meals. Fifty-four bedrooms, all facing sea.
· Vlaha Bukovca 6, Dubrovnik 20000, Croatia (tel: 00 385 20 42 29 33, laus.hr/villa-dubrovnik). B&B double US$110-260. D,B&B $18 added per person.
Hôtel de l'Océan, France
Near white sandy beach in quiet village on Ile de Ré (near La Rochelle): simple family-run hotel. Courtyard, garden, beamed restaurant (local fish and seafood). Twenty-four bedrooms (some small).
· 172 rue de St-Martin Le Bois-Plage-en-Ré, 17580 Charente-Maritime, France (tel: 00 33 5 46 09 23 07). D,B&B: €58-75pp.
Grand Hôtel des Bains, France
In old fishing village on headland on north Brittany coast: classic white 1900s hotel renovated in sophisticated style. Indoor swimming pool, balneotherapy centre. Restaurant serves fresh fish and shellfish, organic vegetables. Thirty-six bedrooms, many with sea-facing balcony.
· 15 bis, rue de l'Eglise, Locquirec, 29241 Finistère, France (tel: 00 33 2 98 67 41 02, grand-hotel-des-bains.com). D,B&B €83-113 per person. Set meal €26.
Golf-und Landhaus Kampen, Germany
On fashionable holiday island with superb sea bathing: exclusive little hotel by sand dunes. Sheltered garden, swimming pool, sauna. Large buffet breakfast on terrace. Dinner by arrangement; many excellent restaurants nearby. Thirteen bedrooms.
· Braderuper Weg 12, Kampen, Sylt Island, 25999 Schleswig-Holstein, Germany (tel: 00 49 4651 4 69 10). B&B double €163-352.
Hotel-Park Ambiance, Germany
In small, select island resort on east coast of Baltic; ideal for seaside/walking holiday (chalk cliffs, beaches, beech woods): new hotel smartly converted from five villas. Indoor swimming pool. Very good food.
· Wilhelmstrasse 34, Sellin, Rügen Island, 18586 Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, Germany (tel: 00 49 3 83 03 12 20, hotel-ambiance.de). B&B double €130-230. D,B&B €30 added per person.
St Nicolas Bay Hotel, Crete
Large, family-friendly hotel on peninsula on Crete's north coast. Terraces carved into rock around bay with small Blue Flag beach. Sea-water swimming pool, health club (indoor pool, gym), three bars, five restaurants. One hundred and five bedrooms, with balcony or patio, some with private swimming pool.
· Aghios Nikólaos, 721 00 Lassíthi, Crete (00 30 8410 25041, stnicolasbay.gr). B&B double €176-425. Set dinner €36.
Sami Beach Hotel, Greece
On Captain Corelli's island: family-run budget hotel on beautiful bay. Swimming pool, bar, tennis, children's playground. Good breakfast; snacks available; restaurants nearby. Fifty bedrooms with sea-facing balcony.
· Sami, 280 80 Cephallonia, Ionian Islands, Greece (tel: 00 30 6740 22824, greekhotel.com). B&B double €57-75.
Hotel Beau Rivage, Italy
On seafront of resort on Ligurian Riviera: inexpensive, simple, family-run hotel. Straightforward meals. Twenty-three small but adequate bedrooms.
· Via Roma 82, Alassio, 17021 Savona, Italy (tel: 00 39 0182 640585, hotelbeaurivage.it). B&B double €99-119. Set meal €21.
Hotel Emilia, Italy
Spectacularly set on cliffs on leafy Cònero peninsula: modern white building with notable collection of contemporary art, big swimming pool in garden, car to beach. Traditional cuisine served alfresco. Thirty-one bedrooms.
· Poggio su Portonovo 1491, Portonovo, 60020 Ancona, Italy (tel: 00 39 071 801 117, hotelemilia.com). D,B&B €100-250 per person.
El Montiboli, Spain
Upmarket hideaway in splendid clifftop setting, in resort between Alicante and Benidorm. Built like a village: twisting walkways, large garden, two swimming pools, access to two small, stony beaches. Two bars, two restaurants; fitness/beauty facilities. Fifty bedrooms.
· Partida Montiboli s/n, Villajoyosa, 03570 Alicante, Spain. (tel: 00 34 965 89 02 50, relaischateaux.com/montiboli). B&B double €121-266. Set meal €31.
Good value
"Why are British hotels so expensive?" is a frequent comment by Guide readers, as they return from the Continent, where even luxury hotels seem cheaper. France and the Italian Dolomites are particularly well endowed with good-value hotels.
Hotel des Ardennes, Belgium
Hospitable Logis in lovely part of southern Ardennes (great walking): warm, homely, professional. Large bar and lounge, conservatory; garden: swimming pool, tennis. Excellent food (Michelin Bib Gourmand). Twenty-nine bedrooms.
· Rue Hate 1, Corbion sur Semois, 6838 Belgium (tel: 00 32 61 46 66 21, hoteldesardennes.be). D,B&B €68-73pp.
Hôtel de la Poste et Champanne, France
On main street of small Auvergne market town: Chazal family's traditional hostelry, unpretentious, warm-hearted, with good, simple cooking (Michelin Bib Gourmand). Twenty- six bedrooms, some up hill in annexe.
· 1 boulevard Docteur Devins, Brioude, 43100 Haute-Loire, France (tel: 00 33 4 71 50 14 62). D,B&B €42-57pp.
Auberge de la Sélune, France
Quiet, unsophisticated Logis de France, on river Sélune near Avranches, 20km from Mont-St-Michel. Fairly basic breakfast; good dinners (Michelin Bib Gourmand) in light dining room; garden, terrace. Twenty bedrooms, simple but comfortable.
· 2 rue St-Germain, Ducey 50220 Manche, France (tel: 00 33 2 33 48 53 62, selune.com). D,B&B €49pp.
Auberge des Montagnes Pailherols, France
On edge of village in remote Cantal uplands: converted farmhouse, quite sophisticated. Indoor and outdoor swimming pools; children's playground; mountain bikes for hire. Michelin Bib Gourmand for copious Auvergne cooking. Twenty-one bedrooms, some rustic, some modern.
· 15800 Cantal, France (tel: 00 33 4 71 47 57 01, auberge-des-montagnes.com). D,B&B €35-44pp.
Hôtel du Midi-Papillon, France
Owned by Papillon family for generations: Logis de France, quite smart but unpretentious, in old village on river Dourbie. Friendly, efficient; excellent food. Small garden with small swimming pool. Eighteen bedrooms.
· St-Jean-du-Bruel 12230 Aveyron, France (tel: 00 33 5 65 62 26 04). D,B&B €33-46pp.
Guts-Gasthof Zum Klosterbräu, Germany
In village with fine baroque church: Böhm family's pink-fronted Gasthof in former brewery. Old buildings around garden (alfresco meals). Very good cooking; good range of beers. Twenty-four bedrooms, large and attractive.
· Kirchplatz 1, Bergen 86633 Bavaria, Germany (tel: 00 49 8431 6 77 50). B&B €34-59pp. Set dinner €30.
Hotel Ganimede, Greece
In ancient port on Gulf of Corinth: Brunello Perocco's charming, idiosyncratic pensione. Eight bedrooms in three buildings around flowery courtyard. Meals available at nearby restaurant, Il Posto, under same ownership.
· 16 Gourgouris, 330 52 Galaxídhi, central Greece (tel: 00 30 2650 41328, sp.gr/ganimede.gr). B&B double €66. Set meal €20.
Hotel Sonnenhof, Italy
By beautiful Dolomites valley near Merano (superb views): Schrott family's budget hotel. Indoor swimming pool, sauna, gym, solarium. Generous dinners at 6.30pm; huge breakfast. Snooker. Twenty bedrooms, well-appointed, with balcony.
· Dorf 48, Kuens bei Meran, Bolzano, Italy (tel: 00 39 0473 241160, hotel-sonnenhof.com). D,B&B €46-55pp.
Locanda della Valle Nuova, Italy
Eco-friendly (smoke-free, piped music-free, solar-heated) little guest house on large organic farm in hills near Urbino: old farmhouse, converted with taste. Six simple bedrooms; open-style sitting room/library. Garden: large swimming pool.
· La Cappella 14, Sagrata di Fermignano 61033 Pesaro e Urbino, Italy (00 39 0722 330303, vallenuova.it). D,B&B €62pp.
Hôtel Theis, Luxembourg
In steep wooded valley by river Sûre in northern Luxembourg: solid white-fronted Logis, good for walking, bird-watching. Good food; generous buffet breakfast. Cafe/bar, restaurant; fitness centre, garden: tennis, children's playground. Nineteen bedrooms.
· Rue Buurschter-Plage, Bourscheid-Plage 9164, Luxembourg (tel: 00 352 99 00 20, hotel-theis.com). D,B&B €54-89pp.
The Good Hotel Guide 2002: Continental Europe is published on January 24. To order a copy for £14.99 plus p&p (rrp £16.99), call the Guardian book service on 0870 0667979. Delivery is 99p for 2nd class, £1.99 for 1st class.
