Why? I first went there as a youth hosteller in the early 50s, when Vienna was still devastated by the aftereffects of the war. The atmosphere was pure Harry Lime with furtive-looking men, apparently without identification papers, seeking sanctuary in city hotels. Forty years later, I returned with my wife, Madge, and Vienna was restored, sparkling and vibrant, the people confident in their peace and independence.

The best thing: It is a city still dominated by music and its history. If you use your imagination you can conjure up the city in the days of its greatness as the hub of a vast empire before the Great War. Now the music and dancing are back again with the bonus of democracy.

My ideal day: Coffee and a cream-smothered torte in a street cafe. Then a visit to one of the historic buildings before a beer and sandwich lunch. In the evening, I'd go to the opera.

My advice: Be sure to take a tram ride or two. They not only clank their way through the city but can carry you high into the Vienna hills and deep into the countryside.

Getting there: expedia.co.uk currently offers a "special fare" of £133.20 return for flights between Heathrow and Vienna.

· John Cole's debut novel, A Clouded Peace (Orion, £5.99), is published in paperback on Thursday. A former deputy editor of the Guardian and later the Observer, he was political editor of the BBC between 1981 and 1992.