To get the full Connery-era James Bond impact of Les Dromonts hotel in Avoriaz, it is important to follow this simple rule: arrive in the dark, by snowcat.
First, the moon-buggy vehicle glides through the snow-deadened streets, passing beneath cliffs that are lit from below to give just a hint of the winter playground that lies above. Then, after coming to a halt outside the hotel, a stunning 1960s design classic that served as the template for the rest of this retro-futuristic Alpine resort, you step out of the bitter night air into an open-plan lobby space that exudes originality and class: a roaring fire; exposed stonework; sunken, cushion-strewn alcoves with long curved banquette seats shaped from the same granite as the building itself. If Ernst Blofeld was in the market for a new mountain-top lair, this would be just the place.
Winter resorts are not noted for being at the cutting edge of the hip-hotel phenomenon, especially in the French Alps, where too many proprietors still labour under the misapprehension that a big drawer that pulls out from beneath the sofa can be sold as a double bed. Cheap and basic are the watchwords.
As befits its mould-breaking design, Les Dromonts does not subscribe to such outdated notions. Now under the stewardship of celebrated St Tropez chef Christophe Leroy, it has fought off years of quiet decline to establish itself as the one of the coolest places to stay in the Alps.
The Leroy connection means that the kitchen is obviously a big part of the sell - it has two gourmet restaurants as well as an extremely smart bar. But it's the quirkiness of the design that makes Les Dromonts truly special. The enormous rooms - complete with enormous beds - have the feel of a space-age mountain cabin, circa 1969: curved walls, low-slung ceilings, porthole windows and, of course, sumptuous bathrooms.
Stunning though it may be, however, it is debatable whether Les Dromonts would work as well if it were located anywhere other than Avoriaz, probably one of the funkiest destinations in the Alps. This, remember, is a resort whose buildings represent the future as envisaged by French architects four decades ago: multi-storey, irregular-shaped, timber-clad blocks that manage to stand out as different while at the same time blending into the natural landscape. For a long time, Avoriaz was regarded as a purpose-built eyesore by many who compared it unfavourably with traditional, chocolate-box Alpine villages; now, like the hotel, people are waking up to what a gem it is.
The entire village is car-free. Vehicles get no further than the vast car parks at the edge of the resort; beyond there, the only means of transport is either horse-drawn sleigh or moon buggy. This gives the place a magical feel, especially when the snow is falling hard, deadening all sounds except the bells on the sleighs. Most of the accommodation - almost all of it apartments - is ski-in, ski-out, and the last run of each day is a scoot through the main street to your bar of choice.
More importantly, there is its location, just an hour-and-a-half's drive from Geneva. The combination of this happy fact and a hotel of the quality of Les Dromonts makes Avoriaz the ideal destination for a sneaky weekend on the snow.
But when it comes down to it, the best thing about Avoriaz is the quality of the riding. True to its pioneering origins, Avoriaz has embraced snowboarding with open arms since the sport first appeared. Its snowpark was one of the first in Europe and now boasts an impressive selection of hits, including a half-buried VW Beetle. But as the resort is part of the Portes du Soleil, which claims to be the largest linked lift system in the world, there is a vast amount of natural terrain to be explored, whatever the conditions, from steeps and tight trees to rolling cruisers and open powder bowls.
It had snowed hard just before our arrival, so we spent the first day riding fresh powder lines off the side of the lifts in the Chavanette area, which sits on the border with Switzerland. This is a swooping, natural terrain park packed with drop-offs and rolling hits, and it took most of the day - allowing for plenty of vin chaud stops - to do it justice.
Back in the bar of Les Dromonts, we indulged in a few glasses of fizz before sampling an exceptional five-course dinner in one of its restaurants. On a Saturday evening, the hotel was buzzing; the only reminder that we were in a ski town rather than a big European city were the 50p-size flakes of snow that had started drifting down past the windows.
With the snow still falling hard the next day, we headed out for a fantasy day of snowboarding. Seeking shelter and better visibility in the trees over in the Lindarets areas, we enjoyed run after run of knee-deep, perfect powder.
By this time, the storm was delivering so much snow that each time we got back to the top we found that our tracks had been filled in, and we were able to pick fresh lines all over again. With riding like this on offer, you don't really need a boutique hotel to stay in. But, believe me, it helps.
Way to go
Getting there: easyJet (0871 7500100, easyjet.com) flies to Geneva from Luton, Gatwick, Liverpool and East Midlands from £50pp return inc taxes. White Roc (020-7792 1188, whiteroc.co.uk) and Made to Measure Holidays (01243 533333, mtmhols.co.uk) can tailor-make packages with flights to Les Dromonts.
Where to stay: Les Dromonts (+4 9497 9191, christopheleroy.com) offers flexible, any-day arrivals with one night's half-board accommodation in a superior room from €115pp per night including culinary demonstrations and wine tasting.
Further information: avoriaz.com
Country code: 00 33.
Flight time: London-Geneva: 1hr, 40mins; transfer Geneva-Avoriaz: 1hrs.
Time difference: +1hr.
£1 = 1.38 euros.
Smart alpine escapes
Chalet Branges, Val d'Isère, France
Another 1960s original, this discrete converted farmhouse sits just outside Val and can barely be seen from the road. It is entered by a stunningly lit, 50m underground slate staircase that leads into three storeys of open-plan luxury. Although owned by an elderly Parisian lady, the decor is classic bachelor-pad chic: huge sofas, lots of sheepskin and gorgeous dome lamps. The centrepiece, however, is the two-storey window that provides views down the valley and the Olympic downhill run from the dining area. Sleeps: 10.
Costs: Finlays (01573 226611, finlayski.com) has seven nights' half-board in Chalet Branges from £680pp, including Gatwick-Geneva flights and transfers.
Zaphir, Zermatt, Switzerland
At the opposite end of the spectrum, this ultra-modern new chalet apartment has five contemporarily designed bedrooms - each with free-standing bath - a massive wood-beamed living space and terraces with incredible views of the Matterhorn. The first floor has a steam room, sauna and hot tub. Sleeps: 10.
Costs: Scott Dunn (020-8682 5050, scottdunn.com) has seven nights from £1,155 including flights and transfers.
Hotel la Torre, Sauze d'Oulx, Italy
The cylindrical design of the four-star la Torre came from its original owners, the Fiat motor company. It has been beautifully renovated, with a spiral ramp carrying guests from the circular lobby to their rooms, all of which have curved walls and lots of leather and chrome. It's topped off by a rooftop sun terrace. Costs: Thomson Ski (0870 6061470, thomson-ski.co.uk) has seven nights' half-board from £369, including flights and transfers.
