Address: Fifth Avenue, Cliftonville, Margate.

Tel: 01843 221703.

Website: walpolebayhotel.co.uk.

First impressions: Like walking into a crepuscular great-grandmother's Edwardian salon, as befits a hotel which doubles as a 'living museum'. Features include displays of 'bygones' (postcards, prints, gas lamps, typewriters, radios, an early toaster etc), a 1927 trellis-gated Otis lift (in working order) and wall-mounted photographic records of famous guests (Atomic Kitten, Ray Winstone, Bob Hoskins).

What are the rooms like? Kitted out with assorted period furniture, flowery wallpaper and more frills than a knicker shop. No central heating, but hot-water bottles available on request. All rooms have sea views (beyond the Thanet Indoor Bowls Centre), and many have balconies.

The bed test: Like the rooms, they are all different but ours was a four-poster swathed in pelmets of lace (the very same bed in which Walpole Bay regular Tracey Emin claims to have had the best sex ever).

The bathroom test: Basic but spacious with a bath and shower attachment, and sea-facing sash window.

The restaurant: Well-cooked traditional meals (T-bone steak, cod wrapped in bacon, duchesse potatoes) served in a classic vintage seaside dining room with swirly carpet, paper doilies and original 1930s light fittings, or cream teas on the Edwardian-style verandah.

The bar: Relaxed gentleman's club atmosphere.

What is there within walking distance? Margate's crumbling sea-front and the beach, the Kent-coast footpath, the Tom Thumb theatre and, by 2007, the much-awaited Turner Centre.

How much a night? Doubles from £40pp per night, B&B.