New frontier

From picture-postcard Prague to the peaks of southern Poland, Lonely Planet writers discover a range of ways to experience the heart of the new Europe.
  
  

St Mary's Church and Krakow Central Plaza
The twin towers of St Mary's Church in Krakow. Photograph: Corbis Photograph: Corbis

Czech Republic

Why go there? The Czech and Slovak republics are the heart of Europe. They have endured centuries of invasions and occupations but their cultures and traditions have proudly withstood the turmoil.

The Czech Republic is home to the mother of all city-break destinations, Prague, whose movie-set perfection, buzzing squares, beautiful architecture, classical music concerts, boutique hotels and pilsener still make it a big drawcard for the weekend-break set. Venture beyond Prague and you're rewarded with superb hiking in the forest-fringed sandstone pinnacles and gorges of the Adrspach-Teplice Rocks, the 14th century Karlstejn castle in the heart of Bohemia and the medieval town of Cesky Krumlov, crowned by its chateau.

If you do one thing . . . Walk. Prague is a city to be savoured on foot, allowing you ample time to stop and admire the architecture. When your legs have had enough exercise for one day, stop for a cold beer in one of the many fine squares.

Where to stay? Hotel Sax (+420 257 531 268, sax.cz), in the quiet and charming Malá Strana area. Big baths, leather couches and striking photography. Doubles from €114.

What to bring back? Bohemian crystal, of course, from chintzy decanters to Indian dream catchers.

A day trip out of the capital . . . The fortress of Terezín is the perfect antidote to a few days in picture perfect Prague. The immense stone fortress was built in 1780 to keep the Prussians out; however, during the second world war the Nazis used it as a holding station for Jews bound for the extermination camps. The fortress is evocative but without conjuring up the immediate horror of places such as Auschwitz. The bus to Terezín leaves from Prague's Florenc station and takes one hour.

Further information: czechtourism.com.

Slovakia

Why go there? At first glance, the Slovakian capital of Bratislava is a disappointment; its castle is bland, the old town is small and there is an over-abundance of communist architecture. However, the appeal of the city is in its energy and nightlife, museums, and restaurants (bratislava.com is good for listings).

The other big advantage is that you'll escape the hordes of tourists. The rest of Slovakia is ideal for nature lovers and activities; in particular, the scenic High Tatra Mountains. The three ranges are spectacularly jagged and snow capped, surrounded by lush greenery with hundreds of trails for walking, climb ing, skiing and cycling.

If you do one thing . . . Check out the Peeper, the Frenchman and the Photographer, three life-size bronze statues that define Bratislava's quirky side. The Frenchman is found at a park bench on Hlavné návestie; the Photographer on Laurinská. And the favourite is the Peeper on Panská, who peers from a street manhole.

Where to stay? Hotel Perugia (+421 2 5443 1818, perugia.sk) is central, small, stylish and with good service. Doubles from €121.

What to bring back? Bratislava is not a shopping city but you could head to Folk Folk for some . . . folk handicrafts (Obchodná 10).

A day trip out of the capital . . . Devin Castle on the Danube is impressive, just 9km west of Bratislava. Although its origins are Roman, it flourished under the grand sounding Prince Rastislav of The Great Moravian Empire. The Hungarians controlled it for a while but then Napoleon's men blew it up in 1809. There is a convenient river link provided from Bratislava's hydrofoil jetty.

Further information: slovakiatourism.sk.

Estonia

Why go there? Dismissed for years as one of the three "confetti states" with Latvia and Lithuania, Estonia has far more to offer than you'd first suspect. Its appeal lies in its understated beauty, with many travellers flocking to this small country for a plethora of reasons: to see the old military Soviet installations on the Estonian island of Saaremaa; to taste the syrupy Vana Tallinn liquor; to indulge yourself in the mud baths at the old health resort town of Haapsalu, or to marvel at the medieval architecture in Tallinn.

If you do one thing . . . Try and be a spectator at a kiiking event. Kiiking is an Estonian sport in which competitors try to achieve the highest number of rotations on a swing. See kiiking.ee.

Where to stay? Hotel Pirita (+ 639 8600) on the seafront is a good option, but make sure you reserve a room with a balcony and view out over Tallinn Bay. Double rooms with bathroom from €69.

What to bring back? In Tallinn's Old Town, you'll find endless small shops, selling traditional knitted sweaters, hats, gloves and socks. Or visit Keraamika (Pikk33) to buy some funky ceramics and watch the potter at work.

A day trip out of the capital . . . Hire a boat or get the ferry to one of the 1,521 islands in Estonia's territorial waters. Many are easily accessible from Tallinn, and are the ideal way to sample traditional Estonian culture. Tallinn tourist information centre (+ 645 7777) can provide information on the small hotels on the islands.

Further information: visitestonia.com.

Latvia

Why go there? Latvia, sandwiched between Estonia and Lithuania, boasts the "bad boy" of the Baltics - its capital Riga is the biggest and most vibrant of the cities in the region. Riga is a big visitor magnet with many drawn to its impressive art-nouveau architecture, the historic old quarter Vecriga and large parks. Despite its big city atmosphere, Riga has toy-town cuteness with booming businesses and the coastal resort of Jurmala within day-trip distance. Latvia has plenty to offer the traveller, from the dune-lined coast and historic towns of Kurzeme in the west, to the remote uplands of the eastern side of the country.

If you do one thing . . . Visit the Freedom Monument (Brivibas bulvaris). Erected in 1935, this bronze female Liberty holding up three stars facing west, represents the three regions of Latvia.

Where to stay? If you love green and yellow, candy-striped decor, Laine (laine.lv) is perfect. Tucked off the main street, the jolly decor will certainly make a favourable impression. Double rooms from €42.

What to bring back? Sweets and chocolate. Laima - Latvia's oldest and most successful confectioner - produces over 150 different products, from a striped sweet called "esmeralda" to crunchy "Triks" chocolate bars. Laima has a number of shops throughout Riga.

A day trip out of the capital . . . Take a train to Sigulda, a pretty town known locally as the "Switzerland of Latvia", which sits on the edge of the picturesque Gauja Valley. From here, you can walk, cycle, horse-ride, or be adventurous and jump off a cable car, crossing the valley, with elastic tied to your legs. Bungy jumps cost from €22, from May to September. See lgk.lv. Daily trains go to Sigulda (ldz.lv) for €1.50.

Further information: latviatourism.lv.

Lithuania

Why go there? Lithuania can be described as rebellious, quirky and vibrant, as well as flat and fertile. The biggest of the Baltic countries, Lithuania is dotted with lush forests, 4,000 lakes and a 100km wide lowland centre. Credited with causing the collapse of the Soviet Union, Lithuania has been independent for over a decade. Its national treasures include the magical Curonian Spit - a natural sand bar 98km long and 4km wide and the eerie Hill of Crosses near Siauliai, which is a popular pilgrimage spot - thousands of crosses cover the hill, with more added by visitors each day. Its capital, Vilnius, is Europe's largest Baroque old town and has been declared a world heritage site by UNESCO. The place exudes a bewitching aura which will entrance even the most jaded of travellers.

If you do one thing . . . Go to Katedros Aikste square and make your dreams come true. Find the tile marked stebuklas (miracle) and make a wish while turning 360 degrees clockwise. The tile marks the end of a human chain between Tallinn, Estonia and Vilnius which was formed by two million Lithuanians in 1989 to protest at the Soviet occupation. Unfortunately, you'll have to search for it yourself as superstition decrees that no one is allowed to reveal its location.

Where to stay? The swanky Reval Hotel Lietuva (sales@revalhotels.com), in the heart of Vilnius, offers luxurious doubles from €130. Built on the site of Hotel Lietuva, an infamously ugly and seedy Soviet hotel, Reval Hotel Lietuva has done more to transform itself than simply adding another word to its name.

What to bring back? Amber - pine resin fossilised 50 million years ago - is one of Lithuania's treasures and is often washed up on the country's beaches. Modern amber jewellery can be inexpensive.

A day trip out of the capital . . . Visit the old Lithuanian capital, Trakai, with its two lakeside castles built to fend off the German knights. Around 30km west of Vilnius, the town is a great country retreat from the bustle of Vilnius. Go in July when Trakai has its annual festival. See trakai.lt.

Further information: tourism.lt (Lithuanian tourist board); vilnius.lt/new/en/gidas.php (guide to the capital).

Slovenia

Why go there? Slovenia is enjoying its independence since breaking away from Yugoslavia in 1991. Unlike other members of the former Yugoslavia, it hasn't suffered any conflicts or terrorism, resulting in stability and affluence. The capital Ljubljana is like a smaller Prague without the crowds. It's nicknamed "White Ljubljana" because of the pale coloured churches and mansions painted by the Hapsburgs in the 14th century. Slovenia has a short coastline of beach resorts and the Julian Alps in the northwest of the country has beautiful scenery with activities such as rafting, cycling, caving, paragliding and fishing. Lake Bohinj, beneath the mythical mount Trigav, holds The Cows' Ball (Kravji Bal) in September - a weekend of festivities to mark the return of the cows from high pastures to the valleys.

If you do one thing . . . Admire the works of Slovenia's architect extraordinaire, Joze Plecnik. From 1921, he redesigned everything from the banks of the river to entire streets. The Plecnik Colonnade, an elegant covered walkway along the river, forms part of the central market where you can buy delicious treats such as forest berries, honey and homemade cheeses.

Where to stay? The renovated art nouveau Grand Hotel Union (+386 308 12 70, gh-union.si) is the place to stay - just ask the Dalai Lama or the King of Spain. Be sure to get a room in the old part of the hotel rather than in the new wing. Doubles from €170.

What to bring back? For that special friend: a traditional beehive panel ( panjske koncnice ), painted with the folk motif of the devil sharpening a gossip's tongue on a grindstone.

A day trip out of the capital . . . Predjama Castle is the most striking fortress you'll ever see. The 16th-century castle sits in the centre of a 123m cliff, and Slovenia's own Robin Hood lived here until a cannon ball blasted him out. The cave below is a 7km network of galleries spread over five levels (the public can access about 900m of it). Predjama is difficult to get to by public transport but is worth hiring a car to visit.

Further information: slovenia-tourism.si.

Hungary

Why go there? Hungary is unique. This small country has had a huge impact on the continent's history, and the language and culture is like no other. The capital Budapest has a majestic setting - flanked by the Buda Hills and standing on the Danube. Known as the "Paris of central Europe" for its abundance of baroque, neoclassical, eclectic and art-nouveau architecture, Budapest's most important medieval monuments are on Castle Hill, a UNESCO world heritage site, which sits 170m above the Danube on a 1km long limestone plateau. Beyond Budapest, there is even finer architecture at Koszeg - "the nation's jewellery box". Villány is the place for red wine tasting; Tokaj for dessert wine. Hévíz is Europe's largest thermal lake, where swimmers take the plunge even in winter.

If you do one thing . . . "Take the waters" in one of Budapest's 118 thermal springs. The city lies on a geographical fault and 30,000 cubic metres of warm to hot mineral water gushes forth every day. Try Gellért (XI Kelenhegyi út), an art-nouveau palace: it is like taking a bath in a cathedral.

Where to stay? The five-star Andrassy Hotel (+361 4622 100, andrassyhotel.com) in the Pest district has been spruced up, and most rooms have balconies or terraces. Doubles from €150.

What to bring back? Wine, be it red, white, or sweet. It's been produced all over the country for thousands of years.

A day trip out of the capital . . . Statue Park (szoborpark.hu) is a kind of socialist Disneyland just outside Budapest. It has three dozen busts, statues and plaques of Lenin, Marx, and other "heroic" workers that have been taken down in former socialist countries. From June to August, there is a direct bus from outside the Hotel Le Meridien.

Further information: hungarytourism.hu.

Poland

Why go there? One of the most cosmopolitan countries in Europe, for centuries Poland has been seen as the gateway between east and west Europe, but remained relatively unexplored. But visit the historic towns of Torun, Wroclaw, Poznan and the old royal capital of Kraków, and you'll find traditional, rustic charm. To the south of the country is a walker's paradise with high mountain ranges and scenery to make you drool. To the north is the stunning Baltic coast. Poland is a fascinating country, developing at a rapid rate. The capital, Warsaw, epitomises the nation in its blend of old and new, respecting tradition but racing towards the future.

If you do one thing . . . Treat yourself to an evening of opera at the Grand Theatre (Teatr Wielki). The theatre stages operas from the international repertoire as well as some by Polish composers. Book in advance (+ 8263288)

Where to stay? Hotel Belfer (+ 625 51 85) is a large former teacher's hotel on the Vistula bank. Nothing special but the upper floors have great views. Doubles from €52.

What to bring back? You'll be spoilt for choice at the bazaar in Warsaw's 10th Anniversary Stadium. With over 3,000 regular stalls, selling everything from Polish contemporary art to Poland's number one tipple, vodka (wódka), the bazaar is the largest in eastern Europe.

A day trip out of the capital . . . Kraków came through the last war unscathed, so it has retained a wealth of old architecture from different periods. The tallest structures on Kraków's skyline are the spires of old churches; unclogged by city skyscrapers, the city is alive with character.

Further information: polandtour.org (Polish national tourist office).

· Shop online for Lonely Planet guidebooks to all these new EU states at lonelyplanet.com. The new fourth edition of Lonely Planet Czech and Slovak Republics costs £14.99 and new second edition of Best of Prague £6.99.

Who goes there

Kirker Holidays (020-7231 3333, kirkerholidays.com) features the three Baltic states, plus Krakow, Budapest, Prague and Bratislava.
Three nights at the boutique hotel Three Sisters in Tallinn costs £572 including flights, private transfers and breakfast.

A three-night stay at Prague's Hotel Josef costs £445 inc flights, transfers and breakfast through Travelscene (0870 7779987, travelscene.co.uk).

Regent Holidays (0117 9211711, regent-holidays.co.uk) goes to all eight of the eastern European countries joining the EU. A stay at the Hotel Sheraton, the first five-star property in Krakow, opening May 1, costs £430 for three nights with flights.

Norvista (0870 7447315, norvista.co.uk) has city breaks, cruises and longer escorted and tailormade tours; a tour of the three Baltic capitals costs £557 including flights, six nights' accommodation and travel between the cities by bus.

Seven nights at the four-star Hotel Larix in the Julain Alps in June costs £ per person with flights through Holiday Options (0870 0130450, holidayoptions.co.uk)

 

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