Fasil is what makes a good night great in a traditional Turkish meyhane (tavern) – a motley band of violin, lyre and clarinet-playing musicians and singers who usually mix classical Turkish music, well-loved songs from the 1950s and 1960s and sometimes a cheeky arabesque drumbeat to suit a crowd of diners. This kind of music is quintessentially crowd-pleasing, to the extent that, as the night progresses and the raki flows, the performance becomes the realm of the people and the diners themselves do most of the singing and a great deal of boozy dancing.
Fasil is to the Turks what karaoke is to the Japanese (and to a certain extent the British) – everyone gets involved, but it usually entails a certain amount of tipsiness. I once walked past the open door of a fasil-fuelled meyhane late one night while completely sober, and found it decidedly embarrassing. Grown men and women were singing lustily into a microphone passed around by hands holding glasses of raki and forkfuls of cheese, everyone swaying and hooting with laughter. They were having a whale of a time, just the right side of tipsy, warm with camaraderie and the buzz of being ridiculous with friends.
The great thing is that, even as a foreigner, you are never allowed to be an outsider in a fasil crowd. You may not know the words to the songs or how to dance, but everyone will be (literally) falling over themselves to get you on your feet and fully involved. If this sounds completely horrifying, my advice would be to have a drink and see what happens.
The ideal setting for fasil is unquestionably the meyhane. When performed on stage in a concert hall it is an absolute disaster – unremitting, with slow, dirge-like singing. Avoid at all costs. The good meyhanes in Istanbul are mainly in Beyoglu – this is because, in Ottoman times, Greek and Armenian minorities were allowed to have meyhanes and drink, even when officially alcohol was illegal. There were plenty of secret visits by Muslims too, but the meyhanes were situated firmly in minority communities.
Some Fasil purists insist that the music ought to be unmixed with arabesque-style dancing influences. Try telling that to a raucous group of friends having the time of their lives in meyhane mayhem.
Famous fasil taverns
Galata Meyhanesi
This great venue in the heart of Galata, Beyoglu, is very popular, so be sure to book. It is one of the few venues with performances on weekdays.
Istiklal Caddesi Orhan Apaydin Sokak 5/A, +90 212 293 1139, galata.com.tr
Siçanli Meyhanesi
This meyhane is rather out of the centre of town, but perfect if you want to combine the fasil experience with a location next to the Bosphorus.
Mektep Sokak 8, Çinaralti/Emirgan, +90 212 277 6303, meyhanefasil.com
Feraye Meyhanesi
This tavern is characterised by lots of boisterous revellers. The owner is very jolly, and usually to be found holding court on a Saturday night.
Istiklal Caddesi, Beyoglu, +90 212 244 7472
