Japan boasts some 600 ski resorts and the top sites, such as Niseko, are now well known to an international clientèle. But the lion's share of skiing in Japan goes on at local hangouts where, although the slopes aren't always steep, the runs are cheap and it's possible, if you time it right, to find your own personal powder hill.
The Japanese did to ski resorts what they did to cars, cameras and computers: miniaturised them. During Japan's postwar boom, the new middle-class wealth fuelled a ski craze and developers began cutting down trees and putting up ski lifts anywhere they thought they could. Which in Japan is almost everywhere – three-quarters of the country is mountainous and it is blessed with some of the most reliable and heavy snowfall in the world. Even the smallest hills, some just a few hundred metres above sea level, can offer skiing come winter.
Hundreds of these micro ski areas sprang up all over the country, from the sub-arctic island of Hokkaido all the way down to the subtropical island of Kyushu. Many were family-run, and often consisted of little more than a one-man chairlift, a gentle 200m slope and a shed selling tickets. Yet such was the thirst for snowsport that these micro resorts were inundated with eager skiers.
Long queues and short runs were a common complaint, but times have changed. The runs haven't grown any longer, but the queues are much shorter. In fact, in many of Japan's micro resorts, the crowds have disappeared altogether. When Japan's economy faltered in the early 1990s, the ski industry suffered. While the largest ski areas found a new market with western skiers, Japan's smallest resorts began to struggle.
Micro resorts are basic, but have everything you need for a day on the slopes: a rental shop and restaurant at the base serving no-frills hot meals, such as yakisoba or katsu curry along with snacks and bottled beer. Most don't have bars on site, so après-ski tends to take place in nearby towns, at izikayas (where food is served) or in cosy bars. Local sushi-ya (sushi bars) are also worth visiting – sit up at the bar and watch the "sushi samurai" dice hunks of tuna and octopus and serve it to you with a big ball of wasabi paste and a dish of soy. Wash it all down with a glass of local nihonshu – rice wine. And if you want to relax after your day on the slopes, take a dip in an onsen – a traditional hot bath, which can be found at or near many resorts. Be sure to strip naked and thoroughly wash yourself before entering the steaming waters.
Many micro resorts offer floodlit skiing, or "night game" as it's known locally, from around 6pm to 10pm. With famously long working hours, weekday evenings are a popular time to get to the slopes. On my first night at the tiny ski area of Kadohara in Fukui prefecture, I felt like an Arctic explorer as I excitedly braved the storm when few others dared leave their homes. The slopes were bathed in the sodium glow of floodlights, and muffled Japanese J-pop floated from the ski area's PA system.
I asked the young lift attendant where everyone was, but he just shrugged. So I clambered aboard the rickety two-man lift which rumbled to the top through ever-falling flakes. As I stepped off and sat down to strap on my board, I saw that not a single track was marked on the slope before me. The snow was completely untouched; the entire mountain was mine. I set off through the deep snow, my board hissing as it glided over the surface, parting the crystals and spurting smoky waves of snow into the air as I made big, slow turns in the pillow-soft powder.
While it's a dream come true to have an entire ski area to yourself, it's obviously bad for business, and the future of many micro resorts is uncertain. They were always local hills for local people. Many of the smallest have gone out of business; two I used to frequent have recently closed their doors for good. But hundreds still survive, and if you want to experience skiing like a true local, with no crowds, no queues and no frills, then try a visit to a Japanese micro resort. There are hundreds to choose from and you are rarely far from a ski area. While they are not generally places you would spend more than a day, it's easy to sample several over a few days which makes for an epic road trip.
Five Japanese Micro Resorts
Rokuroshi Kogen, Fukui During the Second World war, Rokuroshi was used as a POW camp, now there is a small terrain park with wide pistes and empty areas. Day lift pass ¥3,000 (£22) Stay There is a hotel and onsen(hot baths) at the ski area, ¥10,500pppn (£80) (includes two meals) Website rokuroshikogen.or.jp
Izumi, Fukui A favourite with younger skiers and snowboarders, Izumi's well-equipped terrain park attracts those who like to spend a lot of time airborne, and is the best micro-resort in the area for freestylers. Day lift pass ¥3,200 (£23) Stay Hotel Furearu Izumi (hotelfurearuizumi.com) ¥11,500pppn (£85) based on two sharing Website fukuiizumi.com
Imajo 365, Fukui Imajo caters for families with well-groomed runs perfect for learners On clear days it's possible to see the Sea of Japan, Lake Biwa, and the Hakusan mountain ranges from the top. Day lift pass ¥4,000 (£30) (includes entrance to the onsen) Stay The traditional Kawabata Ryokan costs ¥7500pppn (£60), including two meals Website imajyo365.com
Karigahara, Fukui A gentle but fun hill, popular with local night-riders, and is one of the best in the area for floodlit skiing. Day lift pass ¥3,000 (£22) Stay Pension Hirao (d4.dion.ne.jp) ¥7,800pppn (£62) half-board (based on two people sharing) Website terral.jp
Kuzuryu, Fukui Popular with local racers, so perfect for speed demons. Day lift pass ¥3,500 (£26) Stay Park Hotel Kuzuryu (parkhotelkuzuryu.com) has onsen facilities, from ¥8,800pppn (£70)based on two sharing Website kuzuryu-ski.com
Essentials
Inside Japan Tours (0117 370 9764; insidejapantours.com) offers return flights from London to Osaka with Finnair and seven days' car hire, seven days' B&B at a pension in Ski Jam Katsuyama, plus lift pass for £1,720pp based on two people travelling together
Sam Baldwin is the author of For Fukui's Sake – Two Years in Rural Japan. For more information, visit ForFukuisSake.com
