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See | Stay | Eat | Drink | Buy | Unwind
See
Just near the Clifton end of the Clifton Suspension Bridge, there's a chance to explore the Clifton Rocks Railway, which has a fascinating history. And this year on 14 April, 12 May and 14-15 September, the top station will open for rare tours of the old funicular, which was carved through the limestone cliffs in 1893. Originally designed to take paddle steamer passengers quickly up 137m through the rock and into affluent Clifton, it ran regularly until being closed in 1934. During the second world war, it was revived as a bomb-proof BBC relay station and air-raid shelter. Now managed by a charitable trust, there's lots to learn when the doors are briefly opened.
If the underworld doesn't interest you, wait out the tour at the hulking Avon Gorge Hotel (theavongorge.com), which hosts the quaint Bridge Café and the White Lion pub. The latter has a terrace offering more sensational views of Brunel's bridge.
• Clifton Rocks Railway, cliftonrocksrailway.org.uk
Stay
There are no five-star hotels in Bristol, but it's surely only the lack of a decent car park that denies the Hotel du Vin that rating. The 40 rooms are housed within an 18th-century sugar house (a Grade II-listed building) with the original flagstones trailing in from the lobby through to the cosy bar, and are filled with vintage furniture, classy decor and subtle lighting. Highlights on the bistro menu include steamed mussels in white wine and steak haché with fried duck egg and bois bourdain.
If you do make it into one of the parking bays, the good news is that the hotel is so close to the city centre you probably won't have to move the car until it's time to leave. Just a few hundred yards away in Nelson Street lies the UK's largest permanent street art project, See No Evil (seenoevilbristol.co.uk); the Bristol Hippodrome theatre (bristolhippodrome.org.uk); and the cavernous Cabot Circus shopping centre. The rejuvenated waterfront area, filled with bars and restaurants, is also well within walking distance.
• Hotel du Vin, Narrow Lewins Mead, 0117-925 777, hotelduvin.com, doubles from £129
Eat
There's an army of eateries vying for your attention in the Cotham area of the city. Although spicy aromas still waft around the neighbourhood, the days of it being an Indian restaurant stronghold are on the wane – today it's a much more cosmopolitan mix. In particular, Cotham Hill is a virtual corridor of dining options, and though it has one of the most unassuming facades, Flinty Red has one of the fastest growing reputations in the city.
Offering a mix of Spanish and Italian food (alongside a quite spectacular array of wines; the name comes from a Roald Dahl quote on wine) this humble little cafe/restaurant/wine bar is packed most evenings and all Saturday – and not just because it's only capable of seating 35 punters. The service is languid, informal and chatty, though you'll be hard pressed to come up with a question on food or wine that the staff can't answer. The menu changes constantly, but permanent items include octopus, anchovy toast (have it with manzanilla sherry) and tonka bean brulée. Check the website for the latest options – and for details on the excellent £9.95 lunch deal.
If you don't mind travelling a bit out from the city centre and have a little extra money to spend, then Casamia (High Street, Westbury-on-Trym, 0117-959 2884, casamiarestaurant.co.uk) stands alone as Bristol's only Michelin-starred restaurant. Menus, lighting and decor change with the seasons, making it good for at least four visits a year.
• Finty Red, 34 Cotham Hill, 0117-923 8755, flintyred.co.uk
Drink
With two universities to cater for there's a glut of boozing options in Bristol, but tucked away in All Saints Lane, just off St Nicholas Market, the Rummer Hotel is absolutely not trying to cater for the student market. Boasting a collection of more than 400 spirits, none of which comes from a mass-market supplier, and a selection of artisan bottled beers, the drinks come at a premium designed to attract a different crowd. As the name suggests, rum features heavily behind the bar – there are about 80, several of which appear on the lengthy cocktail menu.
Alternatively, if the sun is shining, head down to the Apple on Welsh Back. Half on a converted Dutch barge, half on shore, this cider specialist has won fans across the city since opening five years ago. Draft, bottled, still, sparkling, dry, sweet, cloudy, clear … there are 40 types of cider on offer, and while there are selections from France and Sweden, the majority of them come from the West Country.
• The Rummer Hotel, All Saints Lane, 0117-929 0111, therummer.net; The Apple, 0117-925 3500, applecider.co.uk
Buy
Celebrating 10 years in business in 2013, Pieminister is one of Bristol's success stories. You can now find their gigantic, hearty pies in shops and cafes around the country, but it all started in the relatively humble surrounds of Stokes Croft. Each pie is filled with ingredients sourced from the south-west, and still made in the Bristol area. Head to St Nick's Market and fight for elbow room at Pieminister's permanently busy stall. The simple Moo Pie (beef, black pepper and real ale) is the most popular.
If you prefer your souvenirs with less meat content Howkapow, another successful local company, has made the successful transition from online trading to opening a shop in Cabot Circus. There are all kinds of crafty, artistic bits on sale including striking prints and stencils, the majority of which have been created by local artists.
• Pieminister, 0117-302 0070, pieminister.co.uk; Howkapow, 0117-373 1900, howkapow.com
Unwind
A surprise to anyone who thought this kind of thing was restricted to Bath, the Lido baths and spa is one of the city's most unexpected attractions. Originally built in the middle of the 19th century as the Clifton Victoria Baths, in the 1930s it offered the first electrically heated pool in Britain but by 1990 it was in such disrepair that it was closed.
On the brink of being bulldozed for development, the property was granted Grade II-listed status before being redeveloped and reopened four years ago. From the faintly drab exterior, there are few clues that so much drama is contained within. In order to keep its heritage status, a good deal of the Victorian feel has been maintained – the poolside changing rooms, as well as the original location of the open-air pool has been preserved almost exactly. Open in all weather conditions, the heated water steams through winter and keeps visitors cool in summer. Meanwhile, spa rooms offer a simple yet comprehensive list of treatments – the signature Lido Massage (£60 for one hour) comes highly recommended.
• The Lido, Oakfield Place, 0117-933 9530, lidobristol.com
