With a clunk of hooves our horses are led from their stable into the cobbled yard. Around us is a low-lying farmstead dating back to 1700; a sturdy building sheltered by a stone-flagged roof. The Philipsons have lived in Sinderhope in the East Allen valley since the 19th century. Lisa, our guide on this ride, was born here.
This is the North Pennines, 20 miles south of Hadrian's Wall, and an area of outstanding natural beauty (aonb.org.uk). The landscape is breathtaking, with wide skies and far views. "When we reach high ground," Lisa tells us, "we'll be able to see right to the Scottish border."
Our horses are tacked up, and we use an ancient stone mounting block to get into the saddle. Tough native cobs, dales for the most part, they have names such as Bobby, Socks and Mouse. Out of the farm gate we follow a quiet road down the hillside, past verges that in summer sparkle with blue wood cranesbill and pale clumps of twayblade orchid. The way is steep and the horses take their time as we go down to the river to cross a ford known as Old Man's Bottom. A favourite picnic place, there's a footbridge next to it and later there will be wild pansies growing in the short grass, a sign that this was once a lead mining area.
Trotting up out of the valley there's a feeling of excitement as we head for the moors. The horses sense it too. There's the bubbling of curlews as they glide above the heather. Leaving the enclosed fields behind, we canter up a sandy track, exhilarated by the landscape and that sense of being on top of the world. "Look, there's a black grouse," says Lisa. "They're quite shy, but they only seem to notice the ponies, not the riders."
We ride past isolated farms until we recross the river to the hamlet of Sparty Lea. Avoiding the main road we have another couple of canters on green lanes before circling back to High Sinderhope farm amid the uplifting cries of lapwings.
• What to see: Sinderhope Pony Trekking Centre, High Sinderhope (01434 685266, sinderhopeponytrekking.co.uk). Rides to suit all ages and ability. Susie's two hour trek cost £30; all-day treks from £65 (experienced only)
