The "Žižkov Republic" has always enjoyed an identity distinct from Prague's old town. Once known as Red Žižkov – because it was such a Communist party stronghold – today it is flourishing, and full of students, artists and musicians enjoying its cheap rents. Žižkov's unofficial currency is beer, which flows through its charmingly shady old pubs. What Žižkov's bountiful drinking dens, cafes and galleries have in common is a rebellious, independent vibe, a world away from the tourist tack of old town.
1. Kick things off with a tale of two cemeteries, both of which delve deep into the local psyche. Franz Kafka, Prague's most famous literary son, lies in the New Jewish Cemetery. Much romanticised by tourist office types, Kafka's melancholy writings actually conjure up a darker Prague more in keeping with the raffish streets of Žižkov than today's well-polished old town.
2. Just across the road lies Olšanské hrbitovy (Olšany Cemetery), a vast burial ground that dates back to the 17th century. It is most renowned for a more recent inhabitant, Jan Palach, the Czech student who in 1969, in the wake of the brutal crushing of the Prague Spring, committed suicide by self-immolation in Wenceslas Square as a protest against the communist regime. In Žižkov, Palach is still revered as a hero.
3. Cafe culture is starting to encroach on Žižkov's bar scene. Café Pavlac is one of a new breed of arty cafes – with distressed decor beloved of local students and artists. It serves the best coffee in Žižkov, does a good cheap breakfast and is a great place to pick up flyers for local art happenings, club nights and gigs. The adjacent courtyard gallery is run by the same people.
4. A striking symbol of communist-era paranoia, the 216-metre Žižkov Television Tower was designed to block TV transmissions from the decadently disruptive west. Ironically it was not completed until 1992, three years after the collapse of the Eastern Bloc. The tower was recently given a major makeover, its austere interior brightened up with a slick bar, restaurant and the lavish One Room Hotel. Venture on to the observation deck for the finest views in Prague, lounge in the hammock-like chairs and then tuck into a light lunch in the bar or something more sophisticated in the restaurant, which has better views.
5. Continuing the artistic theme, the new Hunt Kastner Gallery lies nearby. Czech artists are mainly showcased, but the curators also often expand their reach with their temporary exhibitions. Recent exhibits include Prague's Alena Kotzmannova and London-born William Hunt's "Ship, Ship, Slip and Drip".
6. Žižkov is awash with offbeat bars and slightly surreal drinking dens. None more so than Bajkazyl, where you can enjoy an ice-cold glass of Únetické Pivo 12° (the 12 degrees indicates not alcohol content but the level of malted barley to water) while you have your bike fixed. Old vinyl records rumble in the background as local students and perhaps an artist or two ease their way through the day at a pace that is the antithesis of hectic.
7. Cocktail bars are now sneaking into the Žižkov scene. Bukowski's (Borivojova 689/86) is the classic but a few doors along is Malkovich Bar, which opened at the tail end of 2013 and has a less raucous vibe, and is more retro living room than loud bar, though it does make a mean Negroni.
8. Prague overflows with cheery beer halls serving hearty stodge. The achievement of U Básníka pánve is in injecting a classic plate of cream-smothered pork and dumplings with a dash of style, the odd herb, less epic portions and a nod to presentation. Not so much reinventing the wheel as satisfyingly tweaking the Bohemian cliche.
9. Residents say you've not been to Žižkov until you've been to Palác Akropolis: it is both Žižkov's cultural and nightlife fulcrum. This Tardis-like art deco dame is home to bars, a restaurant, club venues and concert spaces. The cocktails are not always spot on, but they do keep their Pilsner Urquell well.
10. Back on Žižkov's "Bar Street" of Borivojova, Nad Viktorkou is a popular late-night hang out. The gregarious owners often join punters for a shot of Becherovka, the local herb bitter. They stage gigs too, with London's "Brechtian Punk Cabaret" act The Tiger Lillies apt repeat visitors.
Where to stay
11. Major hotel chains have not yet discovered Žižkov, which seems to be a characterful accommodation wasteland, but there are a sprinkling of decent (if unremarkable) three- and four-star star options such as Prokop Boutique Hotel (+420 222 781 112, doubles from €100 B&B). If you have a spare €1,000, the plush One Room Hotel at Žižkov Tower (+420 210 320 081) is the place, with its luxurious decor and epic city views.
Local's tip
Steve Gove, founder of Prague Fringe
"Žižkov is more than just underground bars and cafes. Theatre company Spitfire has found a home here, in the Palác Akropolis (9). In 2012 they were Pick of the Prague Fringe after performing Voice of Anne Frank. Akropolis and Spitfire are worth checking out."
