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Trips into off-the-beaten-track India: readers’ tips

Getting under the skin of India can mean trekking in the Himalayas, taking mammoth rail and bus trips to remote temples and cycling in lush mountains
  
  

Song and dance … the Hornbill Festival, Kohimi.
Song and dance … the Hornbill festival in Nagaland. Photograph: Dinodia Photo/Getty Images

Winning tip: Tribal festival, Nagaland

Eighteen Naga tribes (most Nagas live in Burma) congregate each year (1-10 December) for the Hornbill festival in Kohima, an extraordinary gathering of tribal culture and other activities, rarely seen by foreigners. Explore Nagaland is a Naga-owned and managed travel company and guesthouse operation offering accommodation with Naga families and run by the super-friendly Nino Zhasa, who lived in UK and speaks good English. Many Nagas (a people who until early in the 20th century practised headhunting) speak English and are happy to explain their culture. The festival sits close to the site of the famous Battle of Kohima in 1944.
rupertcdean

Ancient city, Gujarat

All travellers to Agra know about the Mughal city of Fatehpur Sikri. However, it is now commonly overrun by touts. An alternative, lesser-known Mughal city, which is also a Unesco world heritage site, is the Champaner-Pavagadh archaeological park in Gujarat. The ancient city is full of historical fortresses and untouched structures, which represent a perfect blend of Hindu-Muslim architecture, and date back to the eighth century. This is a great site for travellers interested in photography. Get there before sunrise to capture the golden light on the pink and yellow hues on the monuments.
Saz_182

Perfect beaches, Andaman Islands

The Andaman Islands are certainly off the beaten track, being nearer to Thailand than India. We flew to Port Blair where we were appalled to learn about the British treatment of Indian freedom fighters in the Cellular Jail in the 19th century. Then it was a short boat trip to stunning Havelock island. Here we stayed at the aptly named Barefoot at Havelock. Beach No 7, beside Barefoot, is the most beautiful beach I have ever seen. Think stunning white sands, rollicking frothy waves and gorgeous sunsets. Even better, it was so peaceful and quiet with barely anyone there.
£111 for tented cottage accommodation at barefoot-andaman.com
gwen kinghorn

Mountain biking, Kerala

I did a great cycling trip through rural India, high up in the Western Ghats, using tracks through the tea plantations above Munnar and in the hills above. There were lots of small villages to stop in for food and drink. One particularly memorable long run was over the top of the Ghats ridge and downhill into Tamil Nadu on a narrow cobbled track built by the British to serve the tea trade.
From £995 for 11-day Kerala singletrack tour with mountainbikekerala.com
buryboy

Mountain trails, Uttarakhand

Uttarkashi is a place of wonder, white water rafting, mountaineering and walking trails. You can also see the breathtaking Yamunotri temple (at 3,000m), a Hindu shrine to the goddess Yamuna. Accommodation is generally in village house apartments or in small low rise apartment complexes with a garden. We stayed at the Pavani, which was about £12 a night per room. It was very comfortable and clean. We dined in the Shangri La kitchen, which allowed you to select your own seafood and have it cooked in Nepalese fashion. If you are looking for a place where no one asks you to buy anything, and very little English is spoken, forcing you to pick up some of the language, and you wake up to the sounds and smells of the forest, this place is for you.
ID863949

Afghan architecture, Madhya Pradesh

A train to Indore (a major junction that’s 12 hours by train from Mumbai) then a bus to Dhar and a further bus to Mandu is probably why most people never get to see some of the finest Afghan architecture in the whole of India. We arrived to find only two other tourists there and we all found accommodation at the local Hindu temple – where the bus stops. Perched on top of a plateau are a royal temple, baobab trees from Africa and many other fine examples of Afghan art and buildings including Rupmati’s Pavilion. It is said that the Royal Palace is a smaller version of the Taj Mahal and it is easy to see why. An unforgettable and beautiful place.
Aiden Macfarlane

Glamping in Bihar

We visited Dhula village (between Jaipur and Agra) during a golden triangle trip in India. Dhula is not a touristy place; therefore, it gives a true feel of rural India, and provides a great place for getting to know locals. Everyone is excited to meet you, as they rarely get visitors to the area. However, thanks to the amazing Dhula Bagh, I trust this will soon change. This glamping accommodation allows for a relaxed escape from the busy areas of India, with a pool to relax in and organic, home-grown food provided. The host also arranges activities, such as walks, henna and bike rides to a local farmer’s home.
Demi Franklin

Brahmin’s Soda Factory, Karnataka

Mysore can be a suffocating place in late March, so we were relieved to stumble across Brahmin’s, a no-frills soda and ice-cream shop after a day exploring the famous markets. Seats are much-coveted inside; there’s always a queue for one of the dozen or so berths, which are lined up on opposite walls like a dentist’s waiting room. Curious locals and confused visitors exchange glances over their 10-rupee bowls of ice-cream. Be sure to try one of the delicious juices, although the orange masala – think Fanta with a sprinkling of curry powder – is an acquired taste.
David Ross

Temples and palaces, Madhya Pradesh

Orchha has stunning temple complexes, ruined palaces, an unpolluted river, lovely hotels and, apart from the Indian pilgrims in one small area, no crowds at all. Nearby are the extraordinary temple carvings of Khajuraho.
CrispinKeith

High Himalayas, Uttarakhand

My trip in the Indian Himalayas’ Garhwal region involved a trek from the village of Lata to see the legendary Nanda Devi peak. It was hard and exhilarating and we were thankful for the efforts of the team of porters that escorted us. We spent three weeks trekking in these parts in all. A fabulous and memorable trip. It was beautifully organised by CS Pandey of Himalayan Run and Trek and Heera, our team leader, guide and chef.
greenrivercanoes

Ancient Buddhist caves, Maharashtra

The Ajanta caves near Aurangabad were cut out of rock over 2,000 years old and only became known by the British when a colonial officer stumbled across them in dense jungle in 1819. There are around 30 Buddhist cave monuments including temples, monasteries and ancient mural paintings. Everything is carved out of a single piece of rock in the mountainside and the scale has to be experienced to be believed. It must have taken several generations to complete and is one of the most impressive things I’ve ever seen. Although famous among Indian tourists, this region of Maharashtra state is often overlooked by foreign tourists. Ajanta caves are 220 miles east of Mumbai and can be reached by overnight train (6-7 hours) to Aurgangabad.
YESmonassa

 

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