Annabelle Thorpe 

10 of the best secret retreats in the Canary Islands

Volcanic views, tasty tapas and terrific value … Enjoy some winter sunshine on Tenerife, Lanzarote and other Canaries
  
  

‘Palm trees rustle in the breeze…’ Finca Malvasia, Lanzarote.
‘Palm trees rustle in the breeze …’ Finca Malvasia, Lanzarote Photograph: PR

Finca Malvasia, Lanzarote

Palm trees rustle in the breeze, charred volcanic vineyards stretch out to stark hills on the horizon and the aquamarine pool blazes out against the whitewashed architecture at this super-stylish bolthole, hidden in the La Geria wine region. There are five rooms and suites, along with a three-bedroom villa, all self-catering, with a clutch of good restaurants nearby. Massages, yoga and treatments are available in the circular volcanic treatment room while cots, highchairs, toys and beach gear are all available for children.
Doubles from £102 room-only, fincamalvasia.com

El Patio, Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Discover a very different side of Tenerife with a stay at this elegantly converted rural estate, buried in a 60-hectare banana plantation on the north-west coast, edged by the blue of the Atlantic Ocean. Rooms are simple but comfortable, with an elegant reading room and bar for cooler days or when you want to escape the sunshine. There is a sizeable pool and plenty of quiet corners for lazing with a book. This is an ideal base for walkers, with a range of trails nearby. El Patio can happily organise wine tasting excursions and trips to local food producers.
Doubles from £71 B&B, hotelpatio.com

Hotel San Telmo, Santa Cruz de La Palma

A charming boutique hotel set in the oldest quarter of La Palma’s most charming town, 350-year-old San Telmo has just eight bedrooms, set around a floral central patio with a roof terrace above. The small reception area doubles as a breakfast room and is stacked with information on local attractions and walking trails, with the plant-filled courtyard a great place for a quiet afternoon with a book. There’s no restaurant, but next door Cinnamon Bar is one of the best places in town for hearty Spanish dishes and wickedly indulgent desserts.
Doubles from £70 B&B, hotel-santelmo.com

Veintiuno, Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

Located in the city’s oldest neighbourhood, Vegueta, this 18th-century mansion was once home to one of the island’s wealthiest families, and its metamorphosis into a 21st-century hotel has brought Scandi chic and contemporary artwork to its elegant spaces. The 11 bedrooms are stylish, and there’s a wonderful rooftop area with plunge pool, bar and fantastic views over the historic skyline. Owners Alexandra and Paco are always on hand for local tips and recommendations – note, though, this is an adults-only hotel.
Doubles from £113 B&B, hotelveintiuno.com

Alava Suites, Teguise, Lanzarote

On a quiet street in Costa Teguise, the six suites at Alava have a crisp, pared-down style in hues of stone and taupe, with indoor plants and oversized windows that bring in the stark, volcanic scenery. Set up for bed and breakfast, each suite also has a small kitchenette, perfect for rustling up simple suppers with a glass of the local volcanic wine. Massages, yoga and meditation are on offer in the wellness studio, with sunbeds dotted around the gardens.
Doubles from £112 B&B, alavasuites.com

Ibo Alfaro Hotel Rural, Hermigua, La Gomera

This 19th-century manor house has been immaculately restored, with many of the 17 bedrooms featuring original teak-wood window seats, wooden floors and Moorish ceilings. Breakfasts are a smörgåsbord of local meats and cheeses, fresh fruit and breads, perfect fuel for hiking La Gomera’s trails. There’s no restaurant, but an honesty bar is there for sundowners on the rooftop.
Doubles from £56 B&B, hotel-gomera.com

Hotel Rural Maipez, Gran Canaria

On the quieter side of the island, this gorgeous, burnt-yellow Canarian house dates back to the early 19th century and offers a haven for walkers and nature-lovers. Stone walls and traditional furniture complement cosy rooms with beamed ceilings and tiled floors. Outside a lawned garden wraps around the pool, with a Turkish bath and sauna. The restaurant serves Spanish and Canarian dishes.
Doubles from £64 B&B, maipez.com

La Casona de Yaiza, Lanzarote

Originally built in 1825 as a summer retreat, La Casona is perched above the Fenauso valley, with extraordinary views across Lanzarote’s blackened landscapes. The hotel has been reimagined as a living art gallery, with painted ceilings, artworks dotted throughout and the ancient rainwater cisterns beneath the house converted into a gallery. The renowned restaurant specialises in fish dishes.
Doubles from £91 B&B, casonadeyaiza.com

Hotel Rural Mahoh, Fuerteventura

A chance to discover the second-biggest Canary island beyond its spectacular beaches, Mahoh is a traditional stone-built house in the north, with magnificent mountain views. Alongside nine rooms with antique four-poster beds and ancient stone walls, Mahoh boasts one of the island’s best restaurants – catering for everyone from carnivores to vegans. There’s a well-stocked library and small pool, too.
Doubles from £69 B&B, mahoh.com

Hotel la Quinta Roja, Garachico, Tenerife

With a stunning location right on the Plaza de la Libertad in the picturesque village of Garachico, this 17th-century baroque mansion has a wonderfully cocooning feel, with a leafy courtyard dotted with loungers and comfy rattan sofas. Rooms have retained many original features, with exposed stone walls set against pared-down, contemporary furniture. The small tasca at the back of the hotel offers delicious lunchtime tapas and a variety of locally sourced wines. Walks, tastings, cycling excursions and canoeing trips can all be arranged by the hotel.
Doubles from £98 B&B, quintaroja.com

Flight-free Canaries
There are ferries to the islands from Cádiz and Huelva in southern Spain.

 

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