Lapa Palace, Lisbon

Address: 4 Rua do Pau de Bandeira, 1249-021 Lisbon, Portugal
  
  

Lapa Palace, Lisbon
Night vision ... the view across the gardens and pool. Photograph: PR

Address: 4 Rua do Pau de Bandeira, 1249-021 Lisbon, Portugal

Tel: +351 21 394 94 94, email : info@lapa-palace.com

Website: lapa-palace.com

First impressions: Deceptively small entrance in a quiet area of Lisbon gives on to a grand, stylish hotel. Ornate, banqueting suites, art everywhere. Great gardens and an appealing outdoor pool.

What are the rooms like? All are a good size in the garden wing; comfortable and unpretentious, most with balconies and views over the gardens, the river Tagus and Lisbon. In the palace wing, they are something else again: all individually decorated, using Portuguese fabrics. And if you're feeling really flash, try 701, a suite with its own tower; or 501, the presidential suite. Paul McCartney and Sting were checking into them as we left.

The bathrooms: Big. Twin sinks and walk-in showers as well as a bath. There's also a bigger than usual array of toiletries, including sun cream and after sun, from Helleboro.

The bed test: Comfortable enough, but distinguished by its pillow menu. A selection of pillows (for example, goose feather or hypo-allergenic) are provided in the room, but you can also order something a little more specialised, firmer, or smellier - aromatherapy pillow, anyone?

The best thing: Immaculate food and service.

The worst thing: Tempting the weak-willed with champagne on the breakfast buffet.

The restaurant: Spoilt for choice. The main restaurant is the fabulous Cipriani, with a sun terrace if you're not feeling formal. Its Italian specialities are particularly good and light. Standards are equally high at the poolside restaurant, or you can order from a menu in the Bar Rio Tejo. Here you can also try a port degustation, or one of 50 different teas on the menu, including the Rooibos African Star (vanilla, coconut, cinnamon and cardamom). And don't get me started on the fabulous breakfast buffet where it's almost impossible to decide what not to eat.

What other facilities do they have? Wellness centre with good-sized gym, indoor pool, steam room, sauna, La Prairie treatment rooms. Plus a salon and shop.

What is there to see within walking distance? Stroll the immediate Lapa district for cobbled streets and old shops and houses with ornate tiled exteriors; or go downhill for nightlife in the dockside area. Or it's a short taxi ride to central Lisbon.

How much a night? Rack rates from €375 a night, but current three-night packages on offer (including airport transfers and some meals) cost from €450pp based on two-sharing.

 

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