Why? I love the food. I went to stay in a village there and everyone ate together. As I don't speak Gujurati, I just copied the way they did it. The interpreter asked me how I'd enjoyed the spicy meal, then added, "It should have been okay - they gave you the bland stuff!" I tried one of the other dishes and my mouth was on fire for two days. Gujurat is on the Arabian Sea. Pakistan is on one side, Rajasthan on the other and Maharashtra to the south. There's a lot of Muhgal influence there. Jalal ud-Din Muhammad Akbar, or Akbar the Great to his friends, virtually controlled the world from Gujurat in the 1500s. Everyone's forgotten him now, except in Gujurat. It has a substantial Muslim population, with lots of Muhgal influence but very little British influence. There are few trees there, because the Europeans later came along and deforested it. It's barren but still enticing.

The best thing: The last time I was there was two years ago. I was on my own and just waddled around for three weeks. Although I know nothing about the combustion engine, I rashly hired a motorbike. It seemed a good idea at the time. Romantic. I had the bike for a week before I gave it up. Never again! I came away with every bone in my body feeling as though it was broken - but I still enjoyed it while it lasted.

The perfect day: Head to Ahmadabad, the capital, and just walk around. There were very few tourists there when I last visited, as a result of which it's still a Muhgal-enclosed city and quite magical: the colours, the food from the street traders and the Muhgal architecture. You turn a corner and find a castle. Alternatively, just buzz off into the countryside where you will be made most welcome.

My advice: If you do head into the country take lots of liquid with you - it's very dry and very hot. Also, I always travel with a bottle of iodine. To hell with dabbing it on cuts and bruises, if you have any doubts about what you are drinking, whether it is water or whatever foul noxious stuff you are offered, shove a few drops of iodine in it. It kills anything stone dead - it doesn't do you much good either, but it doesn't half get rid of the bugs.

Getting there: By car or train, from Mumbai (Bombay). British Airways (0845 7799977) flies to Mumbai once a day, fares from £605 return.

Simon Bates presents Classic FM at the Movies' (Classic FM, Saturdays, 6pm).