Rebel rousers

Danny Burrows, editor of Onboard magazine, knows where to find the best pipes, funparks and unridden snow as well as where to let off steam in the world's wildest night spots.
  
  

Mammoth, US
Mammoth, US Photograph: AP

Snowboarding has come of age, its protagonists now spanning all demographics of the mountain user. And yet it still hasn't completely shed its rebellious adolescent traits - not surprising when you consider that it is the offspring of the counter-culture lifestyles of skateboarding and surfing. In keeping with this unconventional stance, what snowboarders long for in a resort, both on and off the mountain, differs from the desires of the archetypal skiers. So, I have chosen 11 resorts suited to these board-bound dissidents - five for their on-mountain facilities, five for their nocturnal revelry and finally the "mother of all resorts", where the needs of the contemporary boardrider are serviced in full.

On mountain Pucón, Chile

The pistes of the Pucon resort occupy the lower reaches of Volcan Villarica; one of Chile's many live volcanoes - but fear not: the last serious eruption was in 1984. It is possible to hike beyond the lift stations to the crater, although hiring the services of a local guide is both wise and encouraged. Once at the summit - after a climb of three hours - boarders will not only be graced by amazing panoramas of Chile and Argentina, but also the prospect of riding 670 metres of vertical drop, only ever crossing the tracks of their own ascent. The lift-accessible area (serviced by seven lifts) is also impressive, and the elated snowboarder would be excused for thinking that mother nature must herself had ridden boards, judging by the plethora of natural hits to launch off.

Trips Worldwide (0117 3114402, tripsworldwide.co.uk) do boarding trips to the Villarica volcano near Pucón, as part of a two-week itinerary in Chile, from £2,400pp (based on two sharing) including all flights, accommodation and transfers.

Red Mountain, Canada

Red Mountain is a unique snowboarding experience, not to be missed. Unlike other Canadian resorts, it has been overlooked by developers and remains trapped in a bygone age. There are no high-speed quads, no rambling resort complexes tugging at its white petticoats and most importantly no crowds. What there is plenty of is snow, and mostly untracked at that. The resort is comprised of two mountains - Grande and Red - which together have 1,100 acres of skiable terrain. While Red boasts a steep face and off-piste tree runs, Grande holds the lion's share of a snowboarder's stomping ground, although it is advisable to hook up with locals since much of the really plush terrain is beyond the resort's boundaries. As the mountain is a 15-minute drive from the nearest town, it is best to have personal transport, for as the locals say, "there are no friends on powder days", making lifts hard to come by.

Frontier Ski (020-8776 8709, frontier-ski.co.uk) has seven nights' room-only at the Uplander Hotel including six-day lift passes, flights and transfers from £875pp, two sharing.

Mammoth, US

Mammoth has had a long and loving relationship with snowboarding thanks to its proximity to the West Coast's breeding grounds of skaters and surfers. But its location also works to its disadvantage, the pistes being packed with snowlovers from LA and San Francisco at weekends. It is possible, however, to escape to the neighbouring resort of June, a haven of empty parks, a pipe and lashings of unridden snow.

Mammoth is littered with snowboarder-specific facilities, including two funparks, the larger of which is lit until 9pm on most nights. This, "The Unbound", is accessible from the Thunder-bound Express and features a vast array of spines, hips, kickers and two pipes while the second park at Canyon Lodge, has slightly more diminutive obstacles to hit. Off-piste possibilities are also endless.

Safari America (020-7740 1221, skisafari.com) has seven nights' B&B at the Jägerhof Lodge with car hire and flights from £660 pp, two sharing.

Laax, Switzerland

Laax has long been considered by snowboarders as the command centre of their sport in Switzerland and the resort's winter opening, and the International Contest that marks this event is unmissable to any self-respecting rider. What has earned Laax its acclaim is the amount of effort the resort authorities put into boarder-specific facilities. It was the first resort in Europe to employ the services of a Pipe Dragon in the construction of its pipes, of which there are now two. The main one is located on the Crap Sogn Gion, under the gondola, while the second has been carved into the Vorab glacier and rests opposite the resorts gargantuan funpark.

In addition to the resort's freestyle benefits there are vast tracts of freeriding terrain to be tracked. It has been rumoured that in the near future the resort intends to build Europe's largest funpark; one can but pray.

Momentum Ski (020-7371 9111, momentum.uk.com) offers three nights at the Laaxerhof from £449pp including flights to Zurich and car hire.

Axamer Lizum, Austria

Axamer is a veritable diamond of a resort due to its vast ski area, although its proximity to Innsbruck means that the pistes are crowded at weekends. The resort, which consists of two peaks, Hoadl and Pleisen, has played host to two Winter Olympics, so as you might imagine, the main pistes are demanding to say the least. The resort does have a pipe and park but alas they are only maintained for contests. However, freestyle riding is not the main feature of the mountain, what with the massive freeriding opportunities open to the adventurous. Tree runs for the advanced snowboarder descend below the main gondola while number three, four and five trails, to the right of the top chair, provide the powderhound with fathomless stashes of fresh snow.

Crystal (0870 8487000, crystalski.co.uk) offers seven nights at the all-inclusive Gotznerhof from £525pp inc flights to Innsbruck, 20 mins transfer and six-day lift pass, board hire and tuition.

Off mountain Chamonix, France

Chamonix is perhaps better known for the Mont Blanc and its ski fields than its nightlife, but as you might imagine the army of snowboarders who swarm there year in year out need somewhere other than the mountain to let off steam. For those after a "quiet" drink, the Chambre Neuf, South Bar or Pub (frequented by the English) are lively options, while Le Garage, La Cantina or L'Arbate serve up loud music and dance floors. La Cantina hosts an array of both local and international DJs with an eclectic playlist, while L'Arbate is more mainstream in its music and frequented more by locals than tourists. Le Garage is always a last choice, but be aware they may drop the Birdy Song into the mix at some point in the evening.

Esprit Ski (01252 618 300, esprit-holidays.co.uk) offers seven nights at the three-star Fecleries Chalet Apartments from £269pp including flights from Stansted to Geneva, breakfast, six evening meals with wine and one night's babysitting per week. Children half-price.

Seefeld, Austria

Seefeld was not a resort that you would instantly associate with snowboarding, but after hosting the world's premier snowboarding event, Air & Style, for the first time last year, this might soon change. From December 14 - 16 the town will again surrender its salubrious streets to marauding crowds of snowboarders and revellers. The main stage, at the heart of the town and sponsored by MTV, will host a list of rocking bands while internationally-renowned DJs, including Fat Boy Slim, will perform in the town's numerous nightclubs.

Inghams (020 87804433 inghams.co.uk) has seven nights half-board at the Stefanie from £460, inc flights to Innsbruck and transfers.

Queenstown, NZ

Queenstown is the heart of snowboarding in New Zealand and was once described as "Aspen on Ecstasy". The town heaves with willing party people, most of whom are wired on adrenalin. There are a number of pubs and eating establishments where boarders will feel at ease, like the Red Rock, but for an extended night on the town the dance floors of Surreal, which plays a mix of house and techno, or Queenstown's home of drum 'n' bass, Tetras, are the places to get down and dirty. The main party event though is the Winter Festival (next year July 13-21), which sees in the season with a nine-day orgy of excessive drinking and sporting antics.

Newmans Holidays (020-7569 3075) has five nights at mid-range accommodation for £285 including six-day ski pass at Coronet Peak or The Remarkables pistes, sausage sizzle up the mountain, airport-hotel transfers and free shuttles to pistes. Austravel (0870 0550221) offers London to Christchurch flights with Air NZ or Singapore from £980 return.

Innsbrück, Austria

Innsbrück is not only home to Burton Snowboards, epicentre of European snowboarding, and gateway to the wintry delights of the Austrian Tyrol, it is also a damn good place for a boarder to slip out of his or her technical wear and boogie on down. As well as the swarms of boarders, there's also a lively university population to guarantee a flow of bodies through the clubs and bars. Jimmy's is a particular favourite, as is the Couch Bar. Both have a sound music policy and regulars include many of the sports' good and great.

Made to Measure Holidays (01243 533333, mtmhols.co.uk) has four-night weekends at the four-star Hotel Schwarzeradler, half board, with flights to Munich plus transfers for £492pp from January 7 to April 30.

Saas Fee, Switzerland

Saas Fee is not only renowned for its extensive and jump-filled winter riding but also boasts an active summer snowboarding scene on the resort's glacier. The main dancing and drinking establishment in the town is the Popcorn bar, located underneath the Hotel Dom, and is a favourite haunt of visiting pro riders. As well as having its own resident DJs, whose choice of music leaves a lot to be desired, big name acts like the Ninja Tunes occasionally drop by to add a little spice the atmosphere. After the Popcorn closes, the hardy can make their way to the Underground Club, but don't go expecting to be dazzled.

Thomson (0870 6061470, thomson-ski.co.uk) has seven nights' half-board in the Hotel Christiania from £395 inc flights to Sion.

A rider's top choice, Whistler, Canada

Whistler is the premier snowboarding resort in the world, both for its on- and off-mountain facilities. Snowboarding, officially permitted since 1984, and is now well established within the resort's community. Facilities for freestyle riders include two extensive and well-maintained terrain parks featuring gaps, fun boxes, spines, quarters and plenty of obstacles to jib and slide. There are three pipes, catered to regularly by a Pipe Dragon machine. The resort covers an area of 7,071 acres of snow, including three glaciers and 12 powder-filled bowls. It is possible to buy a dual-mountain pass that allows the rider to traverse over to Whistler's twin mountain of Blackcomb. The prospects for a night out are innumerable, usually starting in Sushi Ya, above Mcdonald's, for asahi and teriyaki and terminating at the Max Fish Club, home to Whistler's hardcore clubbers.

Skiworld (0870 2416723, skiworld.ltd.uk) offers seven nights in a catered chalet with flights to Vancouver and transfers from £699.

 

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